Manila - Paradise or Hell?

Manila Manila Manila

A city of extremes, from Makati City, the affluent financial district to Intramuros, the historic walled city, to Tondo, the worst slum imaginable, to traffic that never stops or gets anywhere fast, to noise and filth and culture and excitement, to political rallies, to SM Malls, to the third largest in the world Mall of Asia, to sari-sari stores (tiny shops everywhere, selling loads, snacks, drinks, etc.), to ancient cathedrals and churches, to the palatial U.S. Embassy that is on THE prime spot on the water just outside the old city, to a bronze memorial to 100,000 men, women, and children killed in the 1945 siege when the Americans bombed the Japanese out of the city, to a few restored organs from two centuries, to a famous Bamboo Organ Festival, to houses on top of houses on top of houses, to high-rise apartment buildings, to large and small parks, this is the worst and best of humanity in a crowed, incredible place that is impossible to describe! Or did I just try?

I recommend the book "Hey, Joe" by Ted Lerner, an American in Manila. Great short stories what it's really like! A native of Allentown, Pa, the home of Allen organs, for those of you into that.

At least half of my time there was spent riding buses, jeepneys, taxis, tricycles and walking. Staying in Alabang, about 30 kilometers (?) from the Intramusos, didn’t help get anywhere fast. But I saw a lot of everything getting there and back!

I originally came for the Bamboo Organ Festival, a yearly celebration in Las Pinas (10 kilometers south of the city center). St. Joseph Church (finished 1819) houses the famous and now restored Diego Cera organ (second one he built – the other at San Agustin Church). A beautiful old church, romantically lit at night (see pictures), was crowded with people for the several concerts. They featured three local organists, several singers, choirs (including the incredible Las Pinas Boys Choir), and instrumentalists (many from the Manila Symphony), as well as a young guest organist from France, Ghislain Leroy. His masterclass on baroque ornamentation was most informative. If you’ve heard a bamboo flute, then you get some idea of some of the quality of sounds from this organ. Cera didn’t have the money for metal pipes, so he used bamboo. A flute rank, with tremolo, was totally enchanting. I will get to play on this organ when I return. Yes, I'm returning to stay.

The Greenbelt, a huge, modern and sleek mall in Makati City (where all the money flows) is incredible. Makati looks like a large American city with skyscrapers, but is a distance from the old city. I enjoyed a wonderful Malaysian meal there of tilapia fish in a cream sauce and some kind of green vegetable julienned. I look forward to visiting other restaurants over time.

The Manila Cathedral, where I hope to get work playing masses, weddings, and perhaps even forming a boys choir, has a four manual Dutch organ, restored last year, and puts out a great sound. I spent over three hours playing on it and dreaming about the repertoire I would be able to do there.

The San Agustin Church, the only one that survived the war intact, houses a Diego Cera organ from the 1820’s, restored ten years ago by the only organ builder in the country, Cealwyn Tagle, owner of Diego Cera Organbuilders. Trained in Germany, this native of Las Pinas is busy restoring other old Spanish organs, and putting the organ on the map here in the Philippines. I played on one of his small practice organs, as well as went to a master class, and loved it. I’m anxious to play on and hear more of his opus.

Both of these churches are in Intramuros, and close together. I heard that there were 250 weddings at the Cathedral in December. And someone told me that there were regularly weddings on the hour every Saturday in San Agustin. I could play some batallas (battle pieces) on the old Spanish organ! Obviously not many weddings used the organ. But the heirarchy would like to can the canned music more now that the organs are restored. They just need more organists! Amazing! Here I am!

Transportation: don’t expect a lot of luxury. Old Chinese buses, some air conditioned, some not, buses with slat-backed seats and open windows, jeepneys, which are hard to get in and out of if you’re over 5’5”, vans (probably the best), tricycles (more expensive because they hold 2 max and are leg powered), cars, vans, trucks of every size, SUVs, you name it. It’s all an incredible mash of millions of people trying to get from here to there. Smoke belching out from most buses, jeepneys and trucks, you wonder how they breathe and survive!

Try to get something done? The other day I practiced at the San Agustin church, met the Father there, who was excited to have an organist around, and made it back home. That was the day, essentially! Hours travel for an hour practice! Typical here. So how does anything ever get done? I guess one just plans on travel and work being what your day is, IF you have a job.

Then there’s the work thing. IF. And if you don’t find a job you make one by hustling in the streets, selling snacks, peanuts, or anything, or appointing yourself a middle man and staking out a territory. For instance, you help get passengers for jeepneys, or multicabs and the driver tips you. Or at bus terminals and airports, you grab a bag and expect pay for almost nothing. One has to be on the alert and learn to rush in and say "NO, thank you! " They just eke out something so you can eat. Now if you’re in a position to take bribes, well…! That’s how you afford a car or an education for your kids! Or you get a good job abroad then retire to the Philippines in one of the many new, snazzy retirement villages being built on the outskirts of the city.

Taxis: Today on the way to the Domestic Airport, I had a wonder conversation with a taxi driver, Raphael Mariano, who spent 20 years in the military here. He talked freely about the people, the government (“like a horse with blinders”), the incredible greed he sees, how the traffic has gotten worse than ever in the last few years (too many people coming up from the south looking for jobs and thinking they’ll get rich). He used to drive 10-12 hours a day. No more. He owns his taxi and works when he needs. His wife sells things from her sari-sari store in the front of their house. His English was remarkable for a man with a high school education. I felt really blessed to be able to hear his views on his country and people and talk to a working person who seemed to have a good idea of what his country was about.

It's a city of glaring extremes. When it gets really hot in April and May, we'll see how I feel about it!

So here I am sitting in the Cebu Pacific waiting room at the airport, flight delayed, of course. Ready to board, have to go. I'll return to Manila on March 10, and see what happens and how long I can take the madness!

Rod