Rod's Journal in the Philippines "Life & Living in Paradise"

An Evening Stroll

2008-08-16T02:55:00.000-07:00

Since I wrote about a morning walk, I thought I'd talk about an evening stroll. Well, evening as in 5:30. It's dark by about 6:30 here. I'll not attempt to mimic a song this time. "Thank God!", you say?

So, I went to the open market in the poor section. I needed bananas, always plentiful and ripe. It was still open (I'd never gone at this time of day), and the fish/meat section smelled a lot more than in the mornings! I stayed in the fruits and vegetables aisles. I was also going to replenish my supply of Chinese apples, but none were there. I guess by Fall they'll be back. Of course there is no Fall here.

Well, at this time of day, on a Saturday, the streets are almost crowded with people! Children are out having a wild time playing whatever. Near the market I saw about a dozen little kids, probably around 4-5 yrs. old, squatting in a circle. They were looking intensely at a squashed kitten, learning about impermanence! I wish I could have heard and understood their conversation. I must take my camera, but it causes such a stir. Just being the only white person around is enough!

I encountered two games of basketball with young men playing (wearing flip-flops, of course) and having great fun. Since the streets aren't so wide, I had to squeak through quickly so as not to get caught holding the ball and missing a basket.

Groups of men were out sitting around talking and laughing and smoking. I didn't notice any drinking, interestingly. Women were also out chatting with friends or carrying babies or both. Like I said before, it's like one huge family! Everyone is out, and most are interacting with others. Only a few sit alone in their doorway or on their stoop. Is this why they're a happy people? They were probably talking about government corruption. Now why don't I just pull up a chair and see what happens? Well, for one, they might not speak a lot of English.

In New England, well, you know! It ain't like this! Of course this is a large city, not the country. But my sense is that it's the same in the country here. Without home computers and TVs the kids learn to entertain themselves with their peers, and the adults relax and visit. It seems so healthy! Course there are a lot of unhealthy things here too, being a third-world, poor country.

As I strolled back into my area, which is a little more sedate and bridges the two economic areas, I notice that many fewer people were on the street, excepting the children. From my window I hear some adult chatter, kids noises, a car once in a while, a scooter that could stand a muffler repair, and other city noises. But at 6 p.m., it's much quieter here than a few streets away. I'm thankful for that!

In the richer area, it's more sedate and quiet yet, and few people are out of their real houses (other than domestic helpers)! Here are apartments. Close by are houses (if you can call them that) and shacks. But in the morning, most of the trash that people toss away during the day, will be swept up and the streets will be spic and span. Out on Osmena highway, a big 6-8 lane road heading north, there are many street workers, caring for the plants in the median strip, sweeping the gutters and sidewalks in their dark blue clothes, long-sleeved shirts, and bandanas wrapped around their faces to cut the blue-haze exhaust fumes. I'm impressed at how the city is trying!

Of course the kids will be out playing for several hours yet. No worries here of kidnapping, as no one has much of anything! So the kids just run. Often I see them running in and around cars, oblivious. How do they survive?

In contrast, I see how afraid we Americans are for our safety! Not here! They just get out, have fun, and manage somehow. I rarely see a kid with a broken body part, but did notice a boy with a cast. I suppose you learn to be more aware of the space around you so that you learn to weave and avoid cars, scooters, trikes and bikes. It's amazing how few accidents I see, considering how they drive! Supposedly the pedestrian has the right of way. HA!

That reminds me. This morning I suddenly walked by a small canopy over a full coffin (I assume it was full!), flowers, etc. - out there right on the street where everyone could pay their respects. It will probably be there for a couple more days, I think. Then off it will go, the canopy will come down, and....? I'll have to attend a funeral one day. The service may take place right there on the street.

I also went to watch some bowling this morning. A friend works in a bank and all the branches have teams, who were competing. I rather enjoyed it! Perhaps I should go bowling for fun? My doctor asked about exercise. Oh, yeah!

I've been retired for almost nine months now. I guess it's about time to stop being so lazy! Maybe I should get out in the morn and help clean the streets with the droves of city workers sweeping away leaves (it rained hard last night), wrappers, paper cups, cigarette butts, etc.? Well, maybe I'll just walk instead!
Rod

A Morning Walk

2008-08-14T06:35:00.000-07:00

Observations during a morning walk
(to the tune of My Favorite Things - "Sound of Music").
I started with a list, but somehow the tune joined in. Sorry about the lack of rhymes! I'm retired, after all!
I walk, BTW, in two very different neighborhoods. One borders on a poor area and an open market (my side), the other on a more wealthy neighborhood. I'll let you guess which is which. Remember, this is not good poetry here, so start singing!:
"_" means two notes per syllable! Sing in e minor, please!

Verse:
Cracked streets and sidewalks and man holes uneven,
Small piles of concrete in chunks and in bags_!
Uneven sidewalks, you gotta watch out!.
Holes you could lose yourself in! (what's that about?)

Large metal doors_ to keep in your cars_,
Entrances private, behind concrete walls_.
Fa_ncy iron work covers your gate,
Foot_ deep gardens between walls and walks.

Flowers and foliage in pot_ted plants,
Lined up so neatly, or clump_ed together.
Vines overhead_ with yellows and pinks,
These make my walk so pleasant, I thinks.

Refrain:
Seeing cats_, seeing dogs_,
See the squashed cock-roach.
Cats_ with short tails, and mangy to boot,
Dogs nursing broods, oh shoot!

Verse:
Small bags of garbage on sidewalks and trees,
Gone through by scavengers - human and cats.
Sweeping the streets, walks and gutters with brooms.
Washing your stoop_ and bucket baths.

Six A.M. crowds_ of kids, parents, scooters
All crowding round_ the school entrance gate_.
Boys in brown shorts_, white shirts and black shoes.
Girls_ in match_ing skirts and white tops.

Refrain:
Here's a table, full of food,
Pull right up and eat!
It's only for breakfast so get it now,
Cause later it won't be here!

Verse:
High concrete walls all along the side streets.
Construction sites with live_-in workers.
Work_ers taking commun_al baths
Wearing their shorts and using the hose.

Dodg_ing tricycles, cars_ and bikes_,
Dodg_ing doo-doo from too many dogs,
Smelling the smells_ of so many things!
Whew! It's a feast that boggles the mind!

Refrain:
Water trickling in the gutters -
not so clean, but there.
Washing the sidewalks, the cars, the bod,
That's what you do, t'be clean!

Verse:
Houses of all kinds, with windows or not,
Some concrete block_, some plywood or tin_.
Windows and doors_, some fancy, some not.
Held_ together by staples or what?

Dogs of all sizes, in cages, on tethers,
Some barking constantly, some nursing pups_.
Some_ so mangy they look_ a fright,
Why_ do people have so many curs?

Roost_ers crow_ing in_ their cages or
Tied up with strings_ awaiting their fights_.
Guys walking down_ the street in the morn
Holding and petting their cocks with a smile!

Refrain:
When it rains, flooded streets
Wash the grime away!
Then out in your flip-flops and wade away,
Hey, that's_ the way it is!

Verse:
Breakfasts galore_ in canteens all over.
Pans full of food, all lined up in rows,
Lift_ a lid_ and see what you want.
Less than a buck_, you'll have your meal.

Jeepneys all over, all spitting out yuck,
Holding your nose_ or dying of guck,
Noises all over, just let them pass through
Or you go nuts in a minute or two!

Refrain:
Sari-Sari - corner stores,
Make your purchase here.
A packet of cigarettes, shampoo or gum -
Just what_ you need right now!

Verse:
Cars all over, all clean_ or covered.
Once on the street_ they're killing machines!
Mini-Vans, Sedans, and gas guzzelers,
Trying to get where they're going at once.

Ta_xi drivers not making a living,
Jeep_ney owners competing for riders,
Some belching grossness, best cover your nose,
Watch_ your step or you might lose your toes!

Car wash, repair shop, used car sales right here.
Businesses line_ the street over there.
Squat_-ter building. how fright'ning it looks,
Just a bit further, you'll feel more relaxed!

Refrain:
Vendors selling, vendors calling,
Business all around.
It's morning, so get up and work all day long
That's life here, no matter what!

Verse:
Interesting houses or rather old places,
Ir_on gates_ with curlycue grates,
Houses on houses, behind and around.
Washed clothes all hanging from anything found.

Vendors sell pap_ers, flowers, and drinks,
Cloths_ to wipe off your sweat_, I think,
Cigarettes, candies, and eve_ry thing,
Commerce is everywhere on_ the street.

Cute little kids_ all running around,
Some with no pants, no shoes, no sweat!
Parents washing their bottoms so smooth,
Where_ and what did they do_, oh my!

Carts with two wheels_ all push_ed about,
Collecting a_nything worth a bit,
Or selling coc'nut juice, or_ some gruel
Scavengers looking for trash to take.

Refrain:
Old guy selling gum and candies,
all day every day!
I won_der whether he's happy today,
Or if it matters not?

Verse:
Fam'lies together, or fam'lies apart,
Tall concrete barriers or nothing at all,
Two neighborhoods_ so differently built,
Part of the picture I see every day.

Low overhangs that I have to duck under
Or slit my skull_ or trip on the sidewalks,
Keep to my senses or lose my life,
This is what walking around here is like!

Refrain:
Flowering bushes,blooming vines_,
Orchids in a row,
They're right there to blossom just a_ny time,
So take_ a walk and see.

Verse:
Juxtaposition of old_ and new_,
Fancy or not_, it's home to no few_.
Smells_ and sounds_, more sights than can see
Keeps_ my mind_ from be_ing Free?

Fam'lies together all in_ one small spot,
Eating and drinking and singing a lot,
Clothes hanging everywhere, drying about,
Washed in a tub by the women I say!

Refrain:
Clean your body, go to church,
Worship God, they say,
These peo_ple work_ like dogs ev'ry day
And still are smiling proud!

END!

An early trip to the open market: people, sounds and smells(whew!)
Everyone is up and out by 5:30 a.m., one big family!
At the market: Rice, eggs, oil, kitchen stuff, spices, school supplies, veggies, chickens, fresh fish, pork, dirt, grime.

THOUGHTS:
What am I looking for here, as I walk and look around? Imperfections in the concrete or beauty in plants, houses, or what?
Do I just look for imperfections - things that aren't quite right or quite perfect and think "Yuck, why don't they fix that, or clean that up, or..."?
Or do I also see the delightful, the pretty, the perfect and enjoy it?
Do I reject or enjoy the imperfect? Being a visual person, I've always delighted in the beautiful and the perfect, the well-designed, the clean.
What do I do with the rest? That's part of the challenge here! Somedays I hate it. Some days it's truly fascinating!

What must they think to see a white guy on their street, in neighborhoods where no whites live? Am I an intruder or a curiosity? They seem quite friendly, but shy. Filipinos have this "shy" thing.

When I walk to the open market, I enter a very poor neighborhood. Yesterday I walked through an alley, about 10 feet wide. Talk about living with your neighbors! I felt like an intruder! With everyone's life right there on the street, I felt like I was walking through their living room/kitchen/wash room/front step! What right did I have to be there?

Someone said that our happiness depends upon how many people we come in contact with and talk to each day. Is that why they sound so happy? I wonder if these people in these close neighborhoods, who live as much out on the street as in their homes or shacks (in some cases), are really much happier than we westerners who live so apart from each other and have so much? I know that I don't often talk to many people in a day, and I sense that that doesn't help me feel very positive! I guess I need to get out on the street and play with the kids, as they love the attention! And so do I!

Visit to The Ayala Museum: History and Art

2008-07-16T03:26:00.000-07:00

Yesterday I visited the relatively new, beautifully designed and built Ayala Museum in Makati, the financial district. It sits at one entrance to the Greenbelt Park, the most upscale shopping and eating area in all of the Philippines. Filled with the finest shops, great restaurants (let me tell you about the Malaysian restaurant "Banana Leaf" someday, and the great curries I've had there!) gardens, ponds and even an open air, tented chapel where services are often held, it is an opulent reminder that wealth does exist here! For a nice description of the area, see this blog: http://superpasyal.blogspot.com/2007/09/ayala-museum-makati-city.htm.

The juxtaposition of wealth and religion there is, well, interesting! Some day I'll talk about religion here perhaps, though not from going to church every Sunday!

In the first floor gallery in this history and art museum is a display of photos of paintings from the ceilings of many old Spanish churches in the Philippines. With over four hundred years of Spanish rule, there are a lot, as seen in the collection of paintings in the San Agustin museum, Intramuros. Of course I am thankful, for those churches also housed many old pipe organs, a few of which have been restored and are being restored by Diego Cera Organbuilders, here in Las Pinas. There are pictures of some of those in the collection of Organs in the Philippines. Also check out the Diego Cera website for more pictures.

What I most loved was the second floor exhibit of sixty 2'x4' dioramas showing and telling the history of the Philippines! Fascinating for me for all the small models (I have built many in the past during my house and garden designing years), also because of the wonderful models of native structures (I am fascinated by native architecture) to more modern, and also fascinating for its excellent history lesson portrayed exquisitely. Each diorama, full of highly detailed landscapes, people, animals, buildings, and paintings is a work of art, done by famous Filipino artists.

This display is a great history lesson, brought to life in colorful detail, as well as an incredible reminder of the long violent struggle these peoples endured to rid themselves of centuries of Spanish, American, Japanese, British attempts at domination! A short film at the end of the exhibit was an especially moving reminder of a peoples indomitable quest for freedom and self determination! With photos and short clips of political events since WWII, with film clips of protest marches, it was an emotional trip indeed. Seeing a people rise up against oppression and winning their freedom at all cost is always moving!

There is also a great display of model ships on this floor. Wikipedia has a nice description of the museum, too, by the way.

I must go back and visit! This one exhibit alone was worth the $11. entrance fee! And what a great history lesson, in color and in 3-D!

But it was only a beginning. The second floor featured beautiful 20th Century paintings by native Filipino master artists Fernando M. Zobel de Ayala (by whom the museum was conceived and named), Juan Luna, and Fernando Amorsolo. I especially enjoyed the Zobel works, contemporary studies of line in mostly black and white, some executed with hypodermic needle.

A pottery exhibit on the third floor showed much beautiful work. I'll admit to a rather hasty trip down the aisles. But the big surprise was the fabulous fourth floor exhibit of Filipino panned, processed and created gold artifacts. Come to find out there was gold in streams here. Who knew? Does it still exist?

From delicate, small pots to stunning jewelry, often created on extremely thin sheets of gold (to busy with the dead to speed their journey), to large pieces, such as a belt that weighed over 3,000 grams, the work was totally exquisite. Found in grave sites, and other caches, the exhibit shows an incredible richness of talent and craftsmanship!

Ok, I'll admit to a bias against gold because of the huge, ugly gold mining operations and how they destroy the land (remembering the awful looking gold mines in the Black Hills of South Dakota), as well as our seemingly insane need for it. What a shock for me to be so fascinated by this exhibit. The exquisiteness of the work, the designs, the opulence, the craftsmanship! Especially interesting was the ancient belief that wearing beautiful gold pieces would help one into the afterlife! So, guess where a lot of these artifacts were probably found! I hope the bearers had already made the journey! Many, however, were discovered in other places, in caches, etc.

I highly recommend a visit to this beautiful museum when you next visit the Philippines! In every way it is a classy place and a classy museum in a classy neighborhood (if you like that kind of thing).
Rod

Typhoon 'Frank'

2008-06-23T17:34:00.000-07:00

My first typhoon! Not like a bunch of other people, I survived, easily. There was a lot of wind during the night, some rain, then more rain during the day. I just stayed in. Electricity was off, so I read Alice Walker essays from the 80's.

When I went out later there were a few branches down, some water, but not the flooding that some areas here and further south suffered. I did notice that when I got a load for my cellphone at a local sari-sari shop, the owner was walking in about 8" of water in her store, her floor being a little below street level. I'm sure it all blew in and she had no way to pump it out. And I'm sure that a lot of really poor people living in tacked together shacks lost a lot too. The poor just keep getting socked!

The awful tragedy of the Princess of the Stars ferry taking 800 or more down under is still unraveling. It is very unsettling, emotionally. How many lives that will affect, considering how intricately the family ties connect to economics, is staggering, I'm sure.

Thanks to all who expressed concern. Think of those who lost their lives and for their loved ones, please!

Rod

Ramblings

2008-06-19T23:39:00.000-07:00

It's been a bit since my Boracay trip, and it feels like something is brewing inside. Perhaps writing here will help release it? Perhaps not!

First of all, is the U.S.A. Social Security Administration run by First Graders? Must be. No matter how many appeals I make saying that I'm not, in fact, working, they still keep rejecting my appeals to have benefits reinstated! Another trip to the Embassy this morning. Chatted with another American who said it is the only one in the world that has a Social Security Office. Well, here here! Now if Baltimore could just read English! So we tried again!

Funny, he also said that he's been here for 2 years, and can't say he loves it. Bureaucracy! Corruption. "The Filipinos do as their corrupt government does." Interesting and probably true. And the American Bureaucracy isn't doing much better, in my experience.

Yesterday I played Magnet at a mall. I was "invited" by two people to part with cash. One a very muscular man, claiming to be a masseur who would gladly come to my apartment for a P500 massage. (Friends warn: "and all the cash he can find, too!") Then a woman who saw me eating in a restaurant, and was in fact working there while I ate, making big rounds of pasta, suddenly appeared when I left, willing to help me find things, gracious as all get out, friendly, then, whammy, "I really need money because my company won't send me my pay until the end of the month" yadda yadda!

What? Did I have written on my shirt "YOUR PERSONAL BANK"? I swear, I'm going to have a t-shirt or 10 say "Sorry, I've Given All My Bank Allows for the Day!", or "Who was your sucker yesterday?", or, well--you can make up your own to entertain yourself for a few hours! Feel free to send your ideas in "Comments"! I'm always so innocent looking, must be! Or so dumb!

It's been pretty hot here, probably about like Georgia or Florida. But I am still overjoyed that I didn't experience last winter in Massachusetts! I'm planning on a visit in August-September, which will include a joint recital at my old church in Amherst! I'll get to play a few 2-part inventions of Bach that I started working on since moving here, as well as other things, including some organ and piano duets. And I'll finally get to play on the Steinway I helped raise money for restoring.

Go to Stars and Stripes and look for articles by Michael Gisick, my son. Actually, just go to Goggle and type in his name. He writes beautifully, and his stories from Iraq are written from a very different perspective, I believe, from what we hear on TV. I wonder how much he's using the Arabic he started learning years ago in Beirut and in Syria last month?

Be happy, if you will, sad, if you must!

Sir Rod (as I'm often called here by telephone receptionists).
"Sorry, not knighted!" Yet!

Boracay - Paradise in the Philippines

2008-06-03T07:17:00.000-07:00

How does one describe Paradise? I just visited Boracay Island (accent on the second syllable), the crown jewel beach of the Philippines, I understand. With a four kilometer long "White Beach" on its SW side, indeed as white as I've ever seen, and with almost tepid, shallow water a gorgeous turquoise color turning to darker blue, it brings people from all over the world. Swimming, walking, sailing, scuba diving, snorkeling, eating seafood buffets, shopping -- it has it all, along with a few beggars and little kids selling anything from soup to nuts! Of course you can find all the cheap jewelry and t-shirts normal to tourist attractions. I resisted buying a t-shirt, having plenty already!

I stayed at Shenna's a small hotel along the tourist walkway, with only a narrow grove of coconut trees between me and the water. For P1500 a night and a balcony from which I could see the water and the droves of tourists passing below, it was a real steal! Along this narrow, shaded walkway are many hotels (large and small but not tall), souvenir shops, gift shops, clothing stores and street vendors, along with more restaurants than you can count. It all fills up with people all summer (which is just ending). And don't forget the many alleyways in the open air "d-Mall" which heads back from the beach, full of more shops of every kind and for every economic need.

I left on Tuesday, by which time the crowds had gone down dramatically. Most businesses are open throughout the year, of course, as there is no snow to close the beach, just rain! I look forward to visiting in the off season, for a little more peace and quiet.

Sitting at an open bar, chatting with friends, listening to local bands, enjoying San Miguel Light with all-you-can-eat seafood buffets for under eight dollars.....well what else could one want for a vacation? Just looking at the colors of the water made me wax poetic! It seems, however, that I can't go anywhere without ingesting some kind of bug! I didn't last long, but....

Speaking of snow, the sand is so fine, almost as white as snow, and I just couldn't keep from gushing over the color of the water, as well as the stunning sunsets! Really, it's a stunning place!

Back from the tourist area, however, I saw the normal poverty, alas. I'm sure many of those locals work in the hundreds of shops and hotels, but obviously do not reap many benefits.

I bought some shells - one large, fluted clam shell conviscated at the airport! Only $5 lost, but! Luckily they let me keep a beautifully polished nautilus shell. If I hadn't talked them into letting me take it, since, after all, it was sold to me there, I would have thrown a fit, I think!

What a racket! I WILL communicate with someone about getting their act together. If they are going to allow vendors to sell shells to tourists which cannot by law be taken from the island, then they need to communicate with those vendors, or shut them down. I'm sure that if I had taken a boat there would have been no problem. I also don't doubt that the confiscated items get sent back and resold! Am I becoming a skeptic? It would make for a nice circular business, don't you think? Sell and confiscate, over and over!

I've added a slide show of pictures. They tell it all. Enjoy them! And if you are looking for an island paradise vacation, go to Boracay (accent on the second syllable)!

Etiquette

2008-05-14T02:46:00.000-07:00

Now that E is back to school and I'm here alone, I'm going to have to discover what this is all about! Perhaps I'll write here more often? Perhaps I'll walk two times a day like the doctor prescribed? Perhaps I'll just go crazy! No work on the horizon yet, alas.

I've been noticing lately the societal rules of etiquette. "Sir" is most common. "Welcome, Sir", "Good morning, sir", etc.

When I went to the bank today to open an account (which I couldn't for a year!) there were two guards outside and one inside. Did I have to touch the door? No. "Hello, Sir." When I exited, all three said "Thank You, Sir!"

In the store, when you pay for something, everyone who works there and is nearby says "Thank You, Sir." There are a lot of employees in most places, perhaps to minimize shoplifting! Each is stationed at their spot, say pots and pans, or mens slacks, or whatever. And as you go by they invite you to look at what they have. This is especially so in the large department stores like SM. There are sometimes people demonstrating a gadget, a steam iron, or whatever. And they're all young except for the managers, who tend to be a little older.

I never see older people working in the large malls. They tend to have their own sari-sari shops, veggie stands, etc. Or they're retired? Or their kids are supporting them?

At the wet market it's a mix of ages. Probably most older people are dead here, actually. I'm sure life expectancy among the poor is much lower, and those who survive seem to just disappear into their homes.

When I walk the streets I sometimes see them at their doors, either sitting over tea, or just sitting and watching what goes by. Tonight I took a walk in the area where I go to the wet market. It was a little drizzly and everything looked especially dirty, in fact, quite unappetizing! In the morning people will be out by 6 a.m. sweeping up all the trash from the day before. It's amazing how many are always out sweeping in the mornings.

I walked in another direction this morning, into an obviously more affluent area. On every street I met 2 men walking in the opposite direction, enjoying their morning exercise. The houses were still wall to wall, but front gardens were nicer, as well as facades. I must say it felt much more comfortable to me. Not like tonight.

Tonights walk, however, was "enlightening". Everyone was out on the street, men were still working in their filthy repair shops, veggie stands nonexistant, sari-sari shops are almost closed for the day. The trash and filth just a few blocks that way is pretty awful, as are the houses that are essentially put together with scrounged materials with tin roofs. Front doors were open, showing pretty dingy interiors. I'd live outside too! It wasn't a pretty picture. I'd rather not live like that. Two or three floors of nailed together shacks, with an occasional concrete building. Each block seemed to get worse and worse. I turned around!

I felt rather out of place with my earphones playing the radio (from my cellphone), my expensive umbrella, and my obvious foreign skin. A few said, "Hi, what's your name?" I'm saying "Joe" now, taking the lazy way out. Easier that way.

When I first went out four poor boys suddenly came around wanting change. I had none in my pants, but they kept with me for a block. Sweet, obviously bright, but a little pesky with their hungry sign language pleas. How to handle that? It's all humbling! Finally they realized I was of no use to them and drifted away.

Drifting away....interesting thought. Think about it!

Weekend in the mountains

2008-05-07T04:57:00.000-07:00

E and I decided to take the weekend to travel to Baguio, 7 hours bus ride north into the cooler mountains. Everyone from Manila joined us! This area of North Luzon is called the Cordillera. Its high mountains, reaching almost 3000 meters, are home to the Igorot people.

E says they call Malaybalay City (Bukidnon, Mindanao), where he goes to school, the "little Baguio', I guess because of it's higher elevation, cooler temperatures and similar pine forests.

Baguio was constructed as a mountain retreat in the early 1900s by the American military. Their Camp John Hay was captured by the Japanese in WWII before being leveled by the Americans to take it back. In 1990 there was a major earthquake, which reportedly did a lot of damage, none of which I could see now.

It has grown to well over two hundred thousand people, all in an area of pretty steep hills and narrow valleys. The town business center is jam-packed with buildings (some large but not tall), people, jeepneys, cars, taxis and probably a few unseen things. Up on a hill sits a lovely cathedral which we didn't have time to visit. Blame the bug I got! Over development is a big problem, alas!

In the town center is a lovely park with a large, rectangular, man-made lagoon, where we took a little gondola ride, along with everyone else as unskilled at rowing as I, and enjoyed fresh grapes and strawberries from the mountains.

So let me tell you about our stay there.

We arrived at about 9:30 p.m. on Friday, with no reservations. Dumb! For a while it looked like we'd have to sleep on benches in the bus station! Except that there were already people sleeping on them! But then appeared a saint who found a room within easy walking distance. Whew!

We walked to the "Transient House", went into the small basement room (the only empty one in the whole darn city as far as we knew), rolled our eyes, gulped and said, "Sure, we'll take it. 900 pesos, huh?" $22 seemed like a lot for this room! I wanted to tip the finder and all I had, of course, were five-hundred peso bills, so he was well rewarded! Did I learn a lesson?

When they left us alone we laughed in an "oh my god" way. It looked clean, but somehow didn't feel it. (See the slideshow of the picture painted on the wall.) Only one faucet worked in the bathroom - above the bucket, under the shower. Not the sink or toilet. Well, it would HOPEFULLY be for ONLY one night!

The foam mattress was pretty soft and bigger than the frame. It at least had a sheet. Being in the mountains, it was definitely cool, so I went and asked for a blanket, which wasn't really big enough for two people. We slept with all our clothes on, amazingly. That is, E did. He sleeps through anything! What a talent.

I woke up early to the sound of lots of people jabbering, laughing, etc. Grrr. Don't they know this is a hotel and guests are sleeping? HA. I looked out the door and it looked like a group of young adults, maybe a small tour group, who probably were on a vacation together, perhaps going further into the mountains for back packing. It was their breakfast time and departure. So, awake, I had the remains of some flat, dried pancake like things I'd gotten on the trip up. They were actually quite good.

Obviously motivated not to stay there another night, we got up and went back to the bus station to call other hotels. Thankfully we found one, Korean owned, quiet and pretty nice. And there was a nice view of the mountains out the back windows.

Lunch was a good Korean meal just up the street. Good, that is, until I started feeling yucky about three hours later. Then came a temperature, gut ache, yadda, yadda. By about 8 p.m. I was sure it was amoeba again, so off to the ER. Nice hospital, actually. Student nurses took down information, asked for a you-know-what sample, which I couldn't produce, so home we went with the specimen bottle that had a hole at the top of about a half inch! Now, how the hell is one supposed to shit in a bottle that little?

Home again I slept ok (except for a couple quick trips to the C.R.--comfort room, as we call it here). In the morning we were off again to the Baguio General Hospital, equipped with about a pea sized you-know-what scraped from you-know-where! What a hoot! About an hour later, I started feeling better and found out it wasn't amoeba. Ok, so did that mean I'd recover today? I spent much of the day in bed, just as well, as it rained most of the afternoon.

E escaped to the SM Mall, perched on the highest hill above the city, of course, and which was totally wall-to-wall with tourists and locals taking advantage of the 3-day Memorial Day Sale. We ended up there about three too many times for me. So many people, yuck!!! And huge lines for taxis!

There will be no more summer vacations there for me! The coolness was almost too much, actually, but a good break from the heat of Manila, which is, of course, why everyone goes there! Without heat I would find it way too cool for living, especially inside a house when you weren't active. We enjoyed the comforter provided!

Feeling better by Saturday night, we went to the Hotel Elizabeth, a lovely new, snazzy hotel in the hills above the city center. Their Japanese Buffet was accompanied by a live band with a very good balladeer. I especially enjoyed her "Girl from Iponema" rendition. It was a lovely, romantic, and relaxing evening, and all a new experience for E.

He said his ice tea was the best he'd ever had and he even tried some fresh lettuce salad, a first in his life. And he liked it, and has had some here since! Remember, he called ma a Carabao when he first saw me eat fresh lettuce!

I tried some red wine, which was much too sweet for my taste. Of course it was all a gamble since I wasn't sure I was well yet, and considering I also tried about 5 desserts: a yummy apple crepe, ube cake (ube is a purple root crop similar to sweet potato), custard pie, brownie, and some fresh fruit.

Speaking of food, I still haven't eaten a balot yet. I saw someone crack one open, suck out the juices and proceed to peel the egg. Oh my--blood vessels and baby chick hidden in the boiled egg white. No thanks! A friend from Massachusetts said her father could never get past the chick beak! No kidding! So I'm "chickening out" of my intention to try--for now, anyway! I still hear the man on the street every night reminding me!

Tonight E brought home some skewered chicken and chicken guts from the corner outdoor grill. I said, "no way am I going to eat street food, and especially guts!" Well, I tried a short slice. Yuck!!!! He thought it wasn't very good, compared to some he's had. Well, I did it and don't need to do it again! And who did he say found chicken feet his favorite food?

Oh, by the way, the Carabao we gave to E's parents last June delivered a female calf yesterday! I guess a male is worth more, but it's still good news. But now the mother can't pull the plow for two months and it's time to plant.

Since by Sunday morning I was almost back to normal, we went to the Tam-awan Village up in the hills above town. This is a small village in the woods with reconstructed native houses of the area tribes, along with four artists studios (rotating artists, not studios) and a gift shop and gallery of native art. I purchased a nice painting, some cards, and a wind chime that I love. I also enjoyed watching workers redo a grass roof. (Slide show)

We proceeded on up the slick mountain path (it had rained the day before, remember), to see the view. Supposedly on a clear day you can see the South China Sea, which is quite a few kilometers away, really! No luck, but there was a good distant view. I was pleased that I handled the climb so easily, considering I hadn't been feeling very energetic for a couple weeks, and also considering that I'd been sick and that my ticker has some weakness. I did absolutely fine, and chuckled that E was grunting along too! We enjoyed the view, took our pictures when other tourists weren't in the way, then continued carefully back down the path. A taxi took us to lunch (sounds funny that way, doesn't it?), where we had some decent calamari for appetizers, and I can't remember what else. Probably something vaguely Filipino!

We left town at 12:30 in an air conditioned bus, one of the nicer I've ridden in here. I noticed that full buses were leaving for Manila about every 10 minutes, returning those droves of city folk to their hot abodes!

Through the mountains we rode, up and down, me snapping pictures through the slightly dirty window, hoping that there might be a few that would turn out ok. You'll have to be the judge! The mountains are beautiful. We hadn't seen them Friday night because it turns dark by 6:30. BTW, Daylight here extents from about 5:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. year round. There are two seasons, Summer (dry) and Wet (monsoon). Wet is about to begin. I need to buy boots!

Down, down we went until we finally hit the flat plains, filled with rice fields. Once in a while I could see mountains in the distance, but I was amazed at the long stretches of utter flatness. It could have been Iowa! Actually I'll bet Iowa could have grown rice before they drained much of it. Maybe it did. Does anybody know?

We were home by 8, a little, no, a lot tired of being in the bus. At least there were two stops along the way. Well, since there are NO comfort rooms on any bus here, I'd hope so! When I was sick I was really afraid that I wouldn't be able to handle those long stretches! Thank God I recovered so soon! It could have been a very interesting trip!

The next time I go up that way it will be off season, and I'll go further north to see the famous rice paddy-covered mountains and maybe the mummy caves! And I'll remember to take my jacket and a long-sleeved shirt!

See the Cordillera slide show. And come visit!

Singing Cabby

2008-04-28T18:31:00.000-07:00

On the way over to Makati yesterday to buy food, and for E to get sutures removed after 3 tooth extractions, I had a fun conversation with the cab driver. When he discovered I was from Massachusetts he broke into "Massachusetts" by the Bee Gees. He knew all the lyrics, but just in case you don't (I don't!), here they are. I guess it's time for a little karaoke, very popular here.......so sing away if you want. I won't hear it, alas, or yeah, depending!

"Feel I'm goin' back to Massachusetts.
Something's telling me I must go home.
And the lights all went out in Massachusetts
The day I left her standing on her own.

Tried to hitch a ride to San Francisco.
Gotta do the things I wanna do.
And the lights all went out in Massachusetts
They brought me back to see my way with you.

Talk about the life in Massachusetts.
Speak about the people I have seen.
And the lights all went out in Massachusetts,
And Massachusetts is one place I have seen.

I will remember Massachusetts.
I will remember Massachusetts.
I will remember Massachusetts..."

Yesterday was my birthday, btw. Sorry, won't tell, but now it's only two years to Medicare, which you can't collect if you live out of the country. But for seventeen cent visits to the big state hospital, here, who needs to! HA.

We had four guests. I made Pan Seared Lapu-lapu with Mango Salsa, a recipe I found in dentists office magazine. I hadn't purchased fresh fish before (I know, shameful!). E had but I didn't deal with the heads, etc. I hate dealing with the heads, and watching them dress them (even though I used to dress cat fish in Kansas as a boy)! Well, the finished dish, , was a treat, even though the open market fish section is pretty gross for this former vegetarian!

E also made a great pancit (noodles with pork and vegetables), very standard dish here, along with white rice and a cooked vegetable mix of string beans (the long kind), tomatoes, onions, garlic, carrots, cabbage, soy sauce and Ginisa (packaged spice). He decorated the serving trays nicely and helped make it a festive occasion. Of course I had to buy a cake, which was scrumptious!

It was a first for me -- first time celebrating my birthday in another country. It didn't feel at all weird, and it was fun having guests.

No fabulous or funny stories today, sorry. But it was really cool having the cabby sing "Massachusetts" with such gusto. He used to sing in a band, and play guitar but now only sings for weddings, etc., or to himself in the cab, since he has no radio.

I've had such interesting conversations with cabbies! It's such a great opportunity to get to know Filipinos and sense what's important to them. I was telling E how, as a youngster, I used to be so embarrassed when Mom would talk to strangers! How funny--now I do the same! But it's such a great opportunity to to learn and to spread some cheer. So, cheers to you, and thanks for bothering to read my ramblings!

We're planning a 2-3 day trip north five hours into the mountains, where mountainside rice paddies are popular sight-seeing attractions. Since my camera is getting repaired, I'm hoping their "in 2 or 3 days" estimate holds. But I have to remember where I am, so! So I'll have new pictures and adventures to share next week, maybe.

Baguio is a busy town, not too big, in the mountains where lots of city people escape to in the hot summer months. Further on north is popular trekking country where there are lots of mummy caves, mountain views, and terraced hillsides. I don't think we'll do that! I can't trek these days and E doesn't want to see mummies. Fine with me! And another four or five hours on a bus isn't too exciting. Maybe some day.
Rod

"Hey, Daddy, whatcha looking for?"

2008-04-22T00:54:00.000-07:00

I took a walk in the neighborhood this morning, about three hours too late, alas, because of the heat! By 10 a.m. it was already plenty hot!

It was so interesting to observe what a huge difference having a camera around my neck made in how people responded to me, compared to my normal sort-of anonymous walks to the market! It's like the camera is a magnet and they are pulled to it! They begin to smile, laugh and come alive. It's like suddenly being in a bright, new world.

From those young guys who always want to be immortalized, to how people respond to someone who is about to be "taken", it was an entirely different world! Without a camera, I'm just a white oddity here, where I hardly ever see another white person. Normally some say Hi, but most just look and go on. Kids always stare, of course, and if you talk to them, most likely turn away shyly.

So let me tell you a few stories....

I got to the wet, open market (meaning that the fresh food is not packaged, and it's in the open in a covered building). When I went into the narrow isles where the veggies and meats are, the second I pulled up my camera and asked a vendor if I could take a picture, suddenly all the other neighboring vendors came to life, laughing, making comments I couldn't understand, of course, and sort of teasing the victim as I took the picture. Seconds before all had been business as usual, as if they didn't know each other.

A few women rejected my invitation, shy or superstitious I guess. But most were happy to pose. But the place definitely came to life when the camera came up! Most veggie vendors are, by the way, women, while the meat vendors tend toward men. When I've gone earlier in the morning there are several people sorting big stacks of veggies for the vendors, I suppose. I suppose they've just arrived by truck from who knows where.

Just outside the market a seated young man called to me, indicating he wanted his picture taken. So he stuck up his hand in a pose that evidently meant he was a member of a gang, but reminded me of giving the finger! He said, "I'm a gangster, you know, troublemaker," as he smiled and seemed anything but gangsterish! Another young man sitting at a canteen also had a hand gesture, but I never did figure out what it meant. I asked him if he was a gangster too, but he said no. Their pictures are in the "My Neighborhood" slideshow.

It's interesting to me that many say thanks for taking their picture, as if I were doing them a favor. One old man asked what I'd do with the picture so I didn't take it. Suspicious old coot!

Then when I left the market this woman on the street, where there are lots of sari-sari shops, said, as I sauntered by, "Hey, Daddy.....whatcha lookin' for?" I laughed, and said, "nothing, just pictures". Others often call out, "Hi, Joe, what's your name?"

Down the street I heard a singer with his guitar. So I crossed the street and asked for a picture, commenting that I enjoyed his singing. Come to find out he was sitting in front of a little whole-gospel church (see pics: My Neighborhood). Soon out came the 43 year old pastor, and a couple parishioners, I presume. They asked about my religious history, wanted my phone # and wanted to visit me. HELP! Can't you see me going to a little gospel church, home-grown from the streets of Manila? It could be an enlightening experience, but how would I say "No thanks" and not offend them? That will teach me to be friendly! HA. I laughed at myself as I said my goodbyes.

I've posted two new slideshows, one on foods and one on my neighborhood. In a way, they're very connected of course, so enjoy. But I wish you could smell the smells just outside the market. WHEW!

Food

2008-04-21T05:17:00.000-07:00

I'll admit that I haven't been very brave yet with food, so I'll start trying to be more adventuresome. Maybe the 3 little cookbooks I purchased the other day will help!

In general, Filipinos eat rice at about every meal. And the price of rice is going up, which is causing problems with the poor. Word on the streets is that big suppliers are hoarding. The government is looking into the crisis and they're having to import rice. One can pay all the way from about P25 to P60 per kilo now for rice, which is about double a year ago, they say.

In Mindanao I was getting some organic red rice, which is sweeter, probably better for desserts. A couple weeks ago I found some whole grain jasmine, which is fragrant and wonderful, for P47(just a little over a dollar a kilo). And today I shopped at the big SM Supermarket in Makati, and found some organic brown rice for about P50/kilo. So now I have about four varieties of rice totaling about 5 kilos. Filipinos don't like the color of brown rice. Too bad. Every rice vendor usually has at least 6 varieties of rice in wooden bins, and some probably a dozen or more, so there's always a good choice, if you know what you're looking for and how you want to use it, which I don't!

OK, so BALOT: Fertile duck or chicken egg incubated for up to 14 days, I think, then boiled.
This morning I bought one on the way back from the open market, where I bought more rice, mangoes, onions, long string beans, potatoes, oranges, and Fugi apples from China.

Every night I hear a man calling "balot" on the street. Course his diction over the years has gotten rather lazy, so I had to ask E, "what's he saying?" I guess they come around at night because they're supposed to be an aphrodisiac!

So I haven't tried it yet. It's sitting in the frig...it's just the thought of a little chicken or duck arrested by boiling, and feeling the crunch as you bite into it. Well, OK, now or never. Just a minute while I work up the courage!...........(hear me crack the egg, peel it and think, hmmmm, can I do this????)

Ok, so I did it! And there was nothing in the egg but egg! Darn. I'll have to buy another later, then report. But dipping a boiled egg in vinegar then a little salt was good!

I bought some LANZONES a couple days ago. (See new Slide show: FOOD) Here's what a web site said about them: "An oval khaki colored fruit, lanzones has several segments within with white, translucent and juicy flesh. They kind of “pop” in your mouth and can range from unbearably sour to incredibly sweet. Often there is one seed larger than the rest. The seeds are wickedly bitter and highly distasteful – biting into too many of them is a real turn-off. There is a sap to the skin that is extremely sticky and fairly gross on the tongue – kind of like spreading a faster drying Elmer’s glue on your tongue. When just ripe, this is a tropical fruit par excellence. It has flavor, juiciness, sweetness and a uniqueness that is not found in western fruits. Apparently, bats have figured this out and they munch on the ripening fruit with a vengeance. In Indonesia, they wrap pungent bundles of shrimp paste and hang them on the trees to distract or repel the bats; in Paete, Laguna they apparently hang kerosene lamps on the trees to do the same task. The resulting view of hundreds of hanging kerosene lamps on a hillside is said to be spectacular."

I think the taste has just a hint of lime, maybe? The consistency is kinda like firm oranges, or firm jello? Anyway, getting rid of the membranes is sticky but necessary. And those seeds, usually only one in one section of about 5, are indeed bitter! But I like the fruit, though at their size, it can be sticky work peeling them. Ivory soap seems to wash off the sticky stuff.

I've heard that the Lanzones from Camiguin Island are the best. We visited there last May but they weren't in season. That's a small island just off the northern coast of Mindanao, with a beautiful rugged coastline, remnants of several volcanoes, hot and cold springs, and many resorts. In May it was hot, hot, hot so the cold spring was especially refreshing to us and, down stream, for a carabao. Carabao don't sweat, so they need shade or water to cool off. (I have to admit that E thought that seemed strange, and he grew up with carabao, so who knows what to believe!) Anyway, they are docile, hardworking animals, native to the Philippines. They plow many a rice field, pull travois, and can work for 8 hours, not like the brahman cattle who can't pull the plow but half that time. And they're also ridden, slowly!

Oh, this was to be about food. Well, I have to start my research! Be patient! I'll try a new something every few days if I can. By the way, you can buy regular green beans, potatoes, small red and yellow onions, asian eggplant, green, red and hot peppers, long green string beans, carrots, squash, bok choi, cucumbers, small almost red tomatoes, cauliflower, cassava, and what's that slimy veggie from the south? -- oh yeah, okra, etc. I used to get broccoli and snow peas, New Zealand spinach and lettuce in Malaybalay where it's cooler.

Course it's summer here now for two months, until the rains come in June. Days are hot, though it's not too muggy since it's also the dry season. Many days are bright and sunny, with a little breeze, and not at all muggy. My aircon runs most of the day in the bedroom!

I'll take some pictures at the open market, and try to identify the veggies. The big Supermarkets in SM Malls have everything, from maple flavored syrup to salsa, fish to boxed cereals, and even a little whole wheat bread, as well as the usual isles of kitchen stuff, cosmetics, lots of asian noodles, tofu, canned meats (Sardines and beef, tuna, sisig (ground skin, face, whatever!), rarely pork. The pork is usually found fresh. I've even found cans of prepared veggie pork and vegetables. I did have some sisig once and liked it, until I found out what parts went into it!

We had some 5-spice curls of bean curd in a can, which were quite good. Here, much more than in Mindanao, there is a lot of Chinese and Japanese food. In fact, here there is just about anything you'd want. NOT in Malaybalay City. But what do you expect in the country? Great Bend, Kansas stores don't have everything either, but they're better than country towns here, I'll admit. And the aisles are much wider!

We even found a nice Japanese restaurant just a few blocks away. This area is not known for anything but small canteens, or venders who cook on the street, or cook and line up their pans n soy milk, etc. I've never seen fresh milk anywhere, only in boxes or in powdered form. Milo, a sort of chocolate milk mix, is very popular. Chinese canned foods, asian noodles, fresh fish of many kinds, meats, chicken are all standard fare here. And some prepared frozen things called chicken or fish balls, of many tastes, are common. I haven't tried those yet either. I suppose you just pop them in a soup?

As a precaution I usually don't eat veggies fresh, except peeled carrots or salads in a restaurant. It's interesting how people here often say, "oh, yes, that's good for the .... or ...., having some knowledge of the medicinal and healthful properties of the veggies they eat. I've seen several vendors here and there who seem to specialize in herbs. One green, related to the sweet potato, protects one from the dreaded dengue fever. You DO NOT want dengue fever!

Speaking of bugs, I put a screen over the balcony grating Sunday to keep 'em OUT! I haven't seen a mosquito yet, but come the June monsoon, the streets flood, and one needs boots and bug repellent! Flooded streets will be interesting, considering what's all left on the streets! And can't you just see me jumping around the streets trying to keep away from mosquitoes?

E bought a MILK FISH the other day. Tasty, nice white flesh, but too many bones for me! I hate picking through every bite! He made a nice fish soup with bok choi and potatoes.

Sauces: Filipino ketchup, tomato sauce, mayonaise are sweeter, so I look for American brands and Italian tomato sauce. Cheese? No big cheese displays, which is a disappointment. In the provinces the only thing you can get is some soft stuff in a little box, unrefrigerated, that ain't cheese! Here I did find some good cheddar and Colby-Jack. I saw some Gouda and others, but not a lot. I see lots of dairy products from New Zealand, butter and the like.

I even found some frozen salmon at SM, which we'll have later. I made salmon patties today from some canned salmon, yum! However, for a few days eating will be very simple and smooth, as E had three badly decayed molars extracted today! Not fun!

And then, MANGOES: Yummy!!!!! I've learned how to eat 'em: slice in half (well, almost, considering the large flat seed) cup the piece in your hand then slice the flesh gently to the fruit skin into little squares, turn the skin inside out and slurp them off! Juicy, messy, but so delicious! In Malaybalay friends made an icebox mango cake, layers of sliced mangoes, graham crackers and lots of whipped cream and sweetened condensed milk all over. You let it sit in the refrig for a few hours and it all sort of melds together. Yummy! Crumble some graham crackers on top, too.

Or you can simply take a can of Fruit Cocktail (here they include some kind of translucent fruit) and mix it with a little wipped cream out of a little box, and some of that sweet condensed milk. That's pretty fun and tasty and fattening!

Oh, gosh, I hear the balot vendor calling on the street! Will I be brave enough tomorrow to try again for the real thing? I've been avoiding it for 4 months.

Kaamulan Festival 2008

2008-04-12T00:19:00.000-07:00

One of the reasons I didn't move to Manila earlier was to be able to experience the annual Bukidnon Province Kaamulan Festival, an almost two-month long festival celebrating the unity of the seven tribes in the area.

Alas, I got sick the night before the big parade and dance contest, but I did get to some of the rehearsals a couple of days before, eat at Steve's, see the bulls (Wow, what balls!), buy a native made two-string guitar, mouth harp and beaded purse, as well as some organic rice and locally made cookies. I was so moved by the drumming, the energy and the choreography of the dances of the various groups I did get to see rehearse. These dances took up the size of a football field. Some day I'll figure out how to download for you a short movie I took with my camera. Thanks to E for taking some pics after the contests was over on that Saturday in March.

But more than the final festivities was an incredible coming together of quickly built bamboo and nipa huts for shops, eateries, beer and dance halls, garden displays, native crafts, food, you name it! And after about a month and a half it was all gone.
Next year they do it all over again. I hope to go see the parade and dance contests for real then! Enjoy the pictures. Can't you sense the energy and smiles and pride on their faces?

I've always gotten so emotional and envious of native peoples practicing and celebrating their ancient traditions. I feel a great loss at not having those old customs to ground me, to make me part of a group. Perhaps coming to the Philippines and joining a large family, through E, was an attempt to find that bigger family. And family here is what it's all about! And now I've moved away from them too, as I did my family in Kansas and my family in Massachusetts. Hmmmmm.

Pictures on Picasa

2008-04-11T18:43:00.000-07:00

One of the tricks of blogging and using pics has been trying to figure out HOW TO get my Picasa albums to appear as Slideshows on the Blog. I managed to get the one Slide Show working, but have spent hours since trying to recreate that stroke of luck! I think I just did it, but if not, you can try this link: http://picasaweb.google.com/rod.gisick/Manila
There are other slideshows than Manila too, so have fun.
Rod

Emergency Room Costs

2008-04-10T23:18:00.000-07:00

I forgot to mention that the emergency room visit cost me only 7 pesos. That's about 17 cents! I kept asking, "but don't you want more money?" Course it is a government hospital. But the wards I saw looked like they had about 100 or more beds each!

I had taken earplugs, towel, t.p., etc., just in case they wanted me to stay! Can't you see a white person, in a room with hundreds of poor Filipinos, being the center of attention? Of course families come along with patients here, so there isn't much quiet and NO privacy. And I doubt that the comfort rooms are very nice either! Just because it's a hospital doesn't mean it's spic and span like in the U.S.A. Now a private hospital is probably much different. I may try that next, if necessary! Not that I didn't like the PGH, of course.

Brown Out

2008-04-10T22:17:00.000-07:00

E. arrived Thursday morning at 4 a.m. off the boat from Mindanao, which was of course delayed for about 15 hours in Cebu. His first trip this far, ever, I decided to treat him this morning by taking him to Intramuros and playing something for him on the organ. You guessed it, brown-out, so generators weren't enough to power the mighty organ. Same at San Agustin, so back home we came. We'll go help Harv celebrate his birthday tonight. Hey, my first party in Manila!

Did I mention that it's hot as hell here now -- in 90's every day, though not too humid, thank God? It's still the dry season, and has only showered a little about twice since I moved here. June brings the rains and I guess I'll need boots as the streets flood! I sit here and laugh at the absurdity of all this, of how life is on this planet, and of what we put up with! If it isn't one thing, it's another, as my mom used to say. Blogging, I see, really helps me deal with the incredibleness of life and gives me a way to laugh when all seems just SO INCREDIBLY ABSURD!

Oh, and if anyone asks, I'm fully retired! However, I'm hoping still to play somewhere. Meanwhile I'm trying to practice here or there. It's nice having company now that E is visiting during his school summer break! I've had some times of real home sickness lately! I think of someone in MA and the tears flow!

Immigration

2008-04-10T21:24:00.000-07:00

Did I tell you I have to reapply to the Immigration AUTHORITIES every two months to stay here? That's another experience. I keep getting there after my Visa has expired, but in all honesty, last week I wasn't in shape to trust sitting around for hours without a ready comfort room, if you get the drift! So I resigned myself to the fact that it would cost more yet again. I was only about three weeks late the last time! I guess it's really only about $60 a month all total for the extensions. But Monday was Bataan day, closed. Since I was late, what the heck?

What is Bataan day? Thanks to the web: "On April 9, 1942, 12,000 American soldiers surrendered to the Japanese at the tip of the Bataan Peninsula, which juts into Manila Bay in the Philippines. For nearly five months, the troops had fought ferociously against overwhelming odds until they ran out of food, medical supplies and ammunition. As prisoners of war (POWs), they and thousands of Filipinos were taken to a camp run by the Japanese army. This grueling series of marches are now known as the Bataan Death March." For me, holidays mean no traffic! Malls are open, of course!

Tuesday I had an appointment to see my new heart doctor, so I finally got to Immigration by noon, just when they take their lunch break, of course,. Back at 1 p.m. I found out I couldn't enter Immigration wearing shorts and sandals! "WHAT?!! You mean I just spent almost P200 for a taxi from Quezon City to here and I can't get in the building?" "Sorry." Well when you're facing someone who is carrying a rifle, you don't argue, do you?

But then someone shoved a paper in front of me to fill out, and someone else pointed over to a tree where a couple people were renting pants! LOL. So for P50 I rented a pair of polyester dark blue pants with elastic for waste and ankles, which I slipped over my bermuda shorts. What a crazy world! I still laugh at the absurdity of the whole situation. Then, because I was a few days late, there was a fine. So when I went back at five o'clock to pick up my stamped and approved passport, the guy says, "oh, sorry, you didn't pay the fine, you have to go over to window 28." So I did, and there I stood in line with five minutes to go before he closed up his window, and behind these other people who obviously do this for a living for others (packs of visas in hand as well as thousands of pesos in wads). You guessed it, he closed shop. Oh, come on! Back to the other window, obviously looking very weary and feeling like s....t (after all I was still kinda sick), someone finally appeared to help. More "you have to go to window..." "But I was just there and he said to come back here!" So back I go, someone finally came, but he wanted P1000! The last time I paid only P500 so I complained! I'm finally learning to just not put up with that crap!
"Well, if you don't need a receipt then it'll cost you P500." "Fine with me!"

I walked out, greatly relieved, to find the owner of the pants waiting patiently for me. I wonder how much money she's made off that pair of quickly sown together material? And how did she know when I'd appear?

I did have a nice conversation, while waiting in line, with an Irish lad who was there volunteering in an orphanage. We agreed on how inefficient the system is here. But he went back home to get pants! No one told him he could rent them! I guess my sandals were ok. What a hoot!

Amoeba

2008-04-10T21:09:00.000-07:00

Hey, it was bound to happen. Sudden temperature, yucky feeling, diarrhea, finally got me to a clinic (nice new place nearby) and then to the PGH (Phil. General Hospital) emergency room.
That was frightening. I felt really lucky when I saw what was coming through the door into a rather chaotic large room. And don't tell me that I've ever felt more alone and vulnerable! I was texting E. "HELP" messages!
Standing and waiting, not sure what to do, I finally got instructions to go get a blue card for seven pesos (the price of a jeepney ticket). So had to walk, not too willingly, about two blocks to another area of the hospital and wait in line for over an hour for that. Then back and finally saw a couple female Doctors. "Go across the street and get a stool sample so we know if it's viral or bacterial, please." So across the street I make it, slowly, feeling like nothing in my body wanted to move. That took an hour for results - amoeba, then back to get a prescription. By the time I got home I was ready for anything! It actually didn't take that long, it's just how I felt.
In three days I was to return, which I did, and found out when I got there in mid-afternoon (finding the unmarked room was VERY tricky!) I found out I should have gone at 5 a.m. to get in line. "Oh, that's what all those people are doing out in the hallway!" Well, since I was feeling fine by then I decided NOT to return the next day and to just continue the antibiotics. I should have gone back today for another sample to make sure. NO WAY!
So since I couldn't get checked that day I walked a block to the big Robinson's Mall and tired my already weak body out some more! The rest of that day is a fog.

Together? in Manila

2008-04-10T20:35:00.000-07:00

OK, I know it's been almost a month since my last post. Thanks for being patient. Life can get busy when you're moving and setting up an apartment. And what a month it's been. And, frankly, I was too cheap to pay time at an internet cafe. It only took three weeks to finally get connected to the internet, get a land line, and cable TV.
I arrived in Ayala Alabang, thanks to Harv, a friend who works for Diego Cera Organbuilders. Learning to negotiate buses, jeepneys, taxis from there to Intramuros, where the churches are that I'm still hoping to play at, was a major job. It was a bit of a trek, and three weeks later I'm not sure if I could remember how! Ayala is one of the nicer gated cities, where a lot of politicians live, I guess. South of Manila about an hour or more, one sees how the wealthy here spend their money.
However, the main center of Alabang, Metropolis, reminds me of old movies from the 40's? that take place in dirty, industrial, crowded, yucky cities. It feels like black and white and gray, covered with soot, noisy, too many people, too much everything, two levels of road, clogged traffic. I don't mind not going there now that I've moved!
About a week into my move I found an apartment. After looking at two that felt really yucky I found one that had good light, some room, and a back balcony with a view. It's only two steep flights of stairs up, but the street is relatively clean and has only about 2 annoying dogs and a couple of yowling cats, along with the regular procession of people calling out their wares as they walk or bike through. It's amazing how they've all found the "groove" in their vocal range that is the most resonant. It really carries in between the generally three-story concrete buildings.
So I ended up moving the piano, and boxes and things that I had shipped from CDO in a big box built by my landlord in Malaybalay City -- by taxis. Two rides full did it, but alas I left the upright supports for the Yamaha in the back window of the taxi, along with a new DVD player and my sitting cushion. Did he bring them back to me? HA.
The apartment has a big bedroom with a huge closet, and a living/kitchen/dining room in the middle, small bath with cold only shower, and balcony. I'll get some pics taken. Go to Picasa (roddgi) for those, unless I finally figure out how I got the one slideshow attached.
So I went out and essentially bought bed, refrig, couch, rocking chair, table, chairs, and all, and signed a lease for a year. People here asked if I was planning to stay for a while! No duh!
But before all of that I had to catch up with Social Security, who rejected my request for continued benefits because I said I might make some money, so just this week I had to go back and say that I wasn't working, and wouldn't! I'm keeping my fingers crossed!
I'll end this now and keep adding. There are stories to tell.

Manila - Paradise or Hell?

2008-02-29T03:13:00.000-08:00

Manila Manila Manila

A city of extremes, from Makati City, the affluent financial district to Intramuros, the historic walled city, to Tondo, the worst slum imaginable, to traffic that never stops or gets anywhere fast, to noise and filth and culture and excitement, to political rallies, to SM Malls, to the third largest in the world Mall of Asia, to sari-sari stores (tiny shops everywhere, selling loads, snacks, drinks, etc.), to ancient cathedrals and churches, to the palatial U.S. Embassy that is on THE prime spot on the water just outside the old city, to a bronze memorial to 100,000 men, women, and children killed in the 1945 siege when the Americans bombed the Japanese out of the city, to a few restored organs from two centuries, to a famous Bamboo Organ Festival, to houses on top of houses on top of houses, to high-rise apartment buildings, to large and small parks, this is the worst and best of humanity in a crowed, incredible place that is impossible to describe! Or did I just try?

I recommend the book "Hey, Joe" by Ted Lerner, an American in Manila. Great short stories what it's really like! A native of Allentown, Pa, the home of Allen organs, for those of you into that.

At least half of my time there was spent riding buses, jeepneys, taxis, tricycles and walking. Staying in Alabang, about 30 kilometers (?) from the Intramusos, didn’t help get anywhere fast. But I saw a lot of everything getting there and back!

I originally came for the Bamboo Organ Festival, a yearly celebration in Las Pinas (10 kilometers south of the city center). St. Joseph Church (finished 1819) houses the famous and now restored Diego Cera organ (second one he built – the other at San Agustin Church). A beautiful old church, romantically lit at night (see pictures), was crowded with people for the several concerts. They featured three local organists, several singers, choirs (including the incredible Las Pinas Boys Choir), and instrumentalists (many from the Manila Symphony), as well as a young guest organist from France, Ghislain Leroy. His masterclass on baroque ornamentation was most informative. If you’ve heard a bamboo flute, then you get some idea of some of the quality of sounds from this organ. Cera didn’t have the money for metal pipes, so he used bamboo. A flute rank, with tremolo, was totally enchanting. I will get to play on this organ when I return. Yes, I'm returning to stay.

The Greenbelt, a huge, modern and sleek mall in Makati City (where all the money flows) is incredible. Makati looks like a large American city with skyscrapers, but is a distance from the old city. I enjoyed a wonderful Malaysian meal there of tilapia fish in a cream sauce and some kind of green vegetable julienned. I look forward to visiting other restaurants over time.

The Manila Cathedral, where I hope to get work playing masses, weddings, and perhaps even forming a boys choir, has a four manual Dutch organ, restored last year, and puts out a great sound. I spent over three hours playing on it and dreaming about the repertoire I would be able to do there.

The San Agustin Church, the only one that survived the war intact, houses a Diego Cera organ from the 1820’s, restored ten years ago by the only organ builder in the country, Cealwyn Tagle, owner of Diego Cera Organbuilders. Trained in Germany, this native of Las Pinas is busy restoring other old Spanish organs, and putting the organ on the map here in the Philippines. I played on one of his small practice organs, as well as went to a master class, and loved it. I’m anxious to play on and hear more of his opus.

Both of these churches are in Intramuros, and close together. I heard that there were 250 weddings at the Cathedral in December. And someone told me that there were regularly weddings on the hour every Saturday in San Agustin. I could play some batallas (battle pieces) on the old Spanish organ! Obviously not many weddings used the organ. But the heirarchy would like to can the canned music more now that the organs are restored. They just need more organists! Amazing! Here I am!

Transportation: don’t expect a lot of luxury. Old Chinese buses, some air conditioned, some not, buses with slat-backed seats and open windows, jeepneys, which are hard to get in and out of if you’re over 5’5”, vans (probably the best), tricycles (more expensive because they hold 2 max and are leg powered), cars, vans, trucks of every size, SUVs, you name it. It’s all an incredible mash of millions of people trying to get from here to there. Smoke belching out from most buses, jeepneys and trucks, you wonder how they breathe and survive!

Try to get something done? The other day I practiced at the San Agustin church, met the Father there, who was excited to have an organist around, and made it back home. That was the day, essentially! Hours travel for an hour practice! Typical here. So how does anything ever get done? I guess one just plans on travel and work being what your day is, IF you have a job.

Then there’s the work thing. IF. And if you don’t find a job you make one by hustling in the streets, selling snacks, peanuts, or anything, or appointing yourself a middle man and staking out a territory. For instance, you help get passengers for jeepneys, or multicabs and the driver tips you. Or at bus terminals and airports, you grab a bag and expect pay for almost nothing. One has to be on the alert and learn to rush in and say "NO, thank you! " They just eke out something so you can eat. Now if you’re in a position to take bribes, well…! That’s how you afford a car or an education for your kids! Or you get a good job abroad then retire to the Philippines in one of the many new, snazzy retirement villages being built on the outskirts of the city.

Taxis: Today on the way to the Domestic Airport, I had a wonder conversation with a taxi driver, Raphael Mariano, who spent 20 years in the military here. He talked freely about the people, the government (“like a horse with blinders”), the incredible greed he sees, how the traffic has gotten worse than ever in the last few years (too many people coming up from the south looking for jobs and thinking they’ll get rich). He used to drive 10-12 hours a day. No more. He owns his taxi and works when he needs. His wife sells things from her sari-sari store in the front of their house. His English was remarkable for a man with a high school education. I felt really blessed to be able to hear his views on his country and people and talk to a working person who seemed to have a good idea of what his country was about.

It's a city of glaring extremes. When it gets really hot in April and May, we'll see how I feel about it!

So here I am sitting in the Cebu Pacific waiting room at the airport, flight delayed, of course. Ready to board, have to go. I'll return to Manila on March 10, and see what happens and how long I can take the madness!

Rod

YES means NO and other gripes

2008-02-16T03:04:00.000-08:00

When YES means NO!
For instance -
Question: You mean they don't always use organic fertilizer on their rice paddies?
Answer: Yes. (What? Don't you mean "NO"?)

Now for me, "no" would answer that question, right? Not here. Do you know how confusing that gets? When you re-phrase the question it gets really confusing! Sometimes I'm not at all sure of the answer! Whew!

And I have a few gripes today! I'm continually struck at how difficult it is to accomplish something here. Let's say you know that a Doctor for instance comes to town on Saturdays to see patients. So you go on a Saturday. One can't make appointments, of course. Well, they've changed their day to Fridays, sorry. Wasted bus fare, wasted morning!

Or colleges schedule make up classes for all day Saturday. Random! Or the electricity is off here every Saturday from 9 to 4 for maintenance, so I can't get on the internet, can't practice my digital piano, etc., for three Saturdays in a row! Poor spoiled American!

Do Americans know how cushy they have it?

When was the last time you washed a load of clothes by hand, hung it out to dry and hoped it wouldn't rain so they would be dry in a day or two, depending upon the weather? Or the last time you had to go to the store to get a "load" for your cellphone, or your friends didn't have a load so the messages you sent they can't respond to?

Or.....this is life here! And it's normal, so they don't question it. They're poor so they have no power to demand anything. If the government doesn't help - tough luck. You don't make waves. Or you maybe drop a little cash in someone's pocket to get something done. That's probably a more reliable way to get results! Worked for getting my auto license! Just having a job is tantamount to keeping your mouth shut, because there are a lot in line who also need it!

I fly to Manila February 18 for ten days. There is a Bamboo Organ Festival there in Las Pinas, south of the city. This famous organ has only bamboo pipes, used because they didn't have the $ for metal pipes in the early 1800's. I can't wait! I may also have some auditions. Work? Am I crazy? I've only been "retired" for 10 weeks! I may audition at the Manila Cathedral (see their website)! Doesn't pay a lot but has a great organ in a big space. We'll see.

I'll send some blogs from there. It should be full of surprises and wonders!

Striving for Mt. Kitanglad

2008-02-06T19:19:00.000-08:00

A crisp, cool and clean morning great for pictures, so I headed north of town. I almost wished I had taken a jacket. A few kilometers north I found a little road to the right which took me through a little settlement and then out into wild country - pine trees, forests, grassy savannahs with views of the mountains to the east and, when I turned around, the small, beautiful range of mountains to the west that end in Mt. Kitanglad, one of the highest mountains in the Philippines. (See the Slide Show "Mt. Kitanglad".)

I finally had to turn around because I could no longer navigate the awful ruts! A spill there wouldn't be a pretty thing, and this was pretty darn back woods - a good place for bandidos to hide out!

So I worked my way back to the main road north, turning left just north of Patpat, through Dalwangan, and soon discovered a large pineapple plantation. I had never been that close to the actual plant.

Beyond, I rode on good unpaved roads into hilly country with endless, fabulous views and tiny villages surrounded by agricultural land (some flat and some with large deep gulleys) . Only a few trees here and there defined the views and shaded the settlements. With this incredibly huge sky the star show must be awesome! But today my sights were ever on the mountains straight ahead - the pinnacle, the goal, the unreachable Mt. Kitanglad, where the Philippine eagle lives.

As I rode and enjoyed the freedom of the open country, the endlessness of it all, I wondered what ones life would mean here, living so remote in a tiny community with its own little chapel, with nothing going on but the neighbors, hearing an occasional car or truck or scooter, the sound of roosters crowing, dogs barking, children playing? Could I live so simply, so poor? How would that change my psyche, how would I view the world, how would I deal with every day life, living in this big sky - endless view world? With no financial "cushion" what would everyday life mean then? How does being on the edge affect how one views the world? Being so unprotected, how does one prepare for each day? Will I ever know?

Would just managing to survive throw you into the moment or keep you dreaming of something else? What do you hope for when there will probably be no change in your economic status? What makes me think that a life, as I imagine it out there, is really any different that what I live anyway? Wouldn't one deal with the same stuff - namely the mind? Surely! I found that out in 1993 sitting alone in the cold summer mountains of Montana! I went to get away from it all, but the ALL was my mind, which I couldn't escape from.

But it is ever so romantic to dream! That's why I take these rides, these adventures! I'm a romantic and I love to conjure up possibilities. Do these dreams give me more room to live my life freely? How would life be if I couldn't dream? Ah, the mystery of life!

I gave up a lot of security moving here. Could I go further? Could I live that simply, or is that a total delusion I and many have been bewitched by? Are we ever happy with what we have or don't have? Is happiness an illusion? Is reality what it seems? Well, I'll leave those great philosophical riddles to you to solve! Enjoying the incredible beauty of our planet, and seeing how people adapt to their environment is enough for now.

Rod

Roseville Gardens

2008-02-05T02:49:00.000-08:00

Outside of town I discovered a rather new garden installation. I presume it's a commercial operation, but when a friend and I visited today, no one was around. There are several small huts with nipa roofs (a flat leaved plant they use for roofing), a three story structure, lots of plants in formal gardens, with many bromeliads and foliage plants in pots. I added a few pictures to the slide show. There was a nice breeze, so sitting in the shade of the nipa huts was a delight!

We went to a very nice water park, MGM, Sunday, with several friends. It has many different levels, pools, eating huts, nice landscaping. We all had a fun time and I even went down the water slide twice....fast! The sharp turn near the top was a bit of a shock, but my back only felt a bit overstretched the next day! It was fun to meet more friends, too, and talk with them. The water was very refreshing!

We've been having pretty dry weather for over a week, and even the grass is showing it. I was wondering about what was dry about the dry season.

I'm planning on a trip to Manila later in February, to attend the Bamboo Organ Festival in Las Pinas, south of the city. I'll have some good pics then, and stories, I hope. And the annual Kaamulan Festival (you repeat the 'ah' sound with a glottal in between), a celebration of unity between the tribal people in the area is here for a month, starting in a week. They're building these bamboo buildings for eating, drinking, socializing, and there will be parades, and all kinds of events. That will be a great opportunity for pictures and learning about the culture! And blog fodder!

I continue to practice, read novels, relax, walk, shop for food. I'm meeting the vendors I like - Margie for fruits and Nining for vegetables. Nining asked about me the other day, why I was here. I told her my honey was here. She giggled and said, well I'm still single!!!

I made a white bean soup yesterday which E liked. He didn't grow up with a large palate of different foods, so I'm trying to stretch his culinary experience. The looks on their faces when I eat fresh lettuce is wild. They just don't get it! Beats me why they don't eat raw veggies?

I'm going to start working on a piece on male sexuality. That will be interesting, I hope, talking to guys about sex and understanding their cultural mores and practices, what labels they use as different from the western world, etc.

So until later, hope you're enjoying life!
Rod

Family Responsibilities

2008-01-27T00:08:00.000-08:00

I'm learning bit by bit about family ties here, how they view their responsibilities to each other, and how they work as a unit in this culture. Let me tell you about the family I know. While at the same time they seem very happy, under the surface there is great anxiety due to the fear of economic instability and disaster.

As the older brothers and sister married and had children, E became the one, while still in high school, who felt the responsibility for his parents and younger sister. None of his siblings had an education past h.s., if that, which meant they could only find minimum paying jobs. One settled with his inlaws in Cagayan de Oro, another found work there which he lost less than a year ago. He, his family of 3 children, and the other brother, father of one son, are now working sugar cane eight or more hours every day, 6-7 days per week, for 80 pesos a day ($2). The son with 3 children had to move into the family home with the parents. The other lives down the hill. The sister, husband and four children live nearby. As far as I know they are doing ok. But "ok" here isn't ok where I came from.

After I visited in June, the parents moved down the mountain to give the house to the larger family of 5. Papa still tends their rice paddies, which are their only income. They grow about two crops per year. In June I was able to present them, thanks to the help of friends, with a carabao, a vital help in plowing their fields and renting out, and an important link in holding things together. She is now pregnant so hopefully in a year or more they will be able to sell an animal for some profit. We purchased this native water buffalo for around $400.
Let's look at an income of P80/per day, P24000/year ($585/year). Even with free rent it is bare bones. Right now, here in Malay, a boarding house bed, for instance, in a room with several roommates, a communal toilet and cold bath, and kitchen privileges, comes to P1200/mo ($200/semester-5 months). The parents rent a small two-room shack for about 200 pesos a month. The kitchen is under a tree. Luckily the two sons are living rent free, the one in a house owned by her parents. So you see how important parents are! Living on less than $600/year, what about food, health care, transportation and schooling? I am trying to hold our food expenses here in the city, for two people, to $200 a month! Luckily there are NO good restaurants! But feeding 5 people on less than $600 a year?

Obviously there is a problem and someone has to help them find more ways to increase their income. There is no safety net at all, and small disasters turn into life-threatening problems. Education gets eliminated and the spiral continues. So what's new?

The only way for children to be able to help out aging parents and hungry relatives is to go to college, which might lead go to higher paying jobs. But how does one afford college on subsistence farming income? There is a lot of unemployment! And culturally they are ultimately responsible for supporting their family, no matter what! I respect that tremendously, of course.

This is why there is a huge influx of money from Filipinos working abroad. The country exports its most trained workers to other countries, who then send money back. The poor and uneducated are stuck hoping for help from family workers abroad, if somehow they've managed to get work abroad, and the educated are stuck having to go overseas, away from that most vital family unit, to work selfessly for the benefit of their families. Then countries like the U.S.A. are making it harder and harder for immigrants to enter and work, or companies who recruit skilled labor, such as nurses, charge exhorbitant fees and don't treat their employees well.

For instance, one sister-in-law, mother of two young children, works in Kuwait as a domestic helper. She visits her husband and two children in Cagayan de Oro about once a year! She was helping E a little with his college, but finally had to stop because of the needs of her own family and her parents, who are retired and who care for the children daily next door while the father works. When I visited them in May, her father was so excited to chat with me and sang me a song, playing his guitar! That was a treat. E was also getting a little from his grandparents, who are also quite poor. Interestingly, one is a quack doctor (he wanted to give me a massage during the last visit!) and the others sell chopped up wood from the front of their house.

So what I am learning here is how poverty SUCKS; how it keeps people stuck in an endless spiral that, unless broken by good and steady income, ends in disaster. The fear, for those who feel responsible to give back what was given to them as children, is immense! How would I feel if I was afraid that my parents could actually starve and I couldn't do anything about it? And if they then failed, what would happen to the extended family, who depends upon them for some support?

Another nursing student here was telling about her required field work. She was visiting a family who all had an illness caused by a snail. Their diet: rice with salt, for flavor. I'm not sure if the father was working, because of the disease. But there was no chance for health care, no way to get out of the disease, so they were slowly slipping away into a deeper hole of poverty and illness! With too many kids, and all of them sick, can you image the situation? It makes one shutter!

That's why I am here, partly. I wanted to understand what it was like for people who didn't have anything, and to help, in some way. Since my retirement is minimal I unfortunately cannot help a lot, so I am seeking help from others, who have some resources available to them, and who would like to make a difference! Obviously I am helping E get through school so that he can help them and stop shouldering all the weight he has for years now.

I have identified four areas of critical need for this family:

1) The PARENTS need to be able to purchase a home so they can have that security. (They essentially gave up their family home to the one son and his family.) They could easily buy a house for $1000 to $2500 in their very rural area! Imagine, a house for so little and a guarantee of having a place with no rent.

2) The GRANDCHILDREN (8 there) need basic dental care. They all have had the normal childhood vaccinations, but their teeth are in bad shape!

3) The youngest DAUGHTER needs money now to continue her college education, so that in three years she can also be part of the solution. Tuition: $400/year. Room, Board and expenses: $1200/year minimum. She is working on weekends which pays for half of her tuition. Right now this is a critical need for her. No help, no school!

4) Tuition expenses for the GRANDCHILDREN, several who are ready to begin school. In this system, no pay, no school. I don't as yet have figures on these expenses.

So, you see, there is work to be done. I only hope that I can help in some small way to give this needy and worthy family some security. They are already happy, but if an illness happens, then they are sunk! The paternal grandmother was just in the hospital and the last figure I heard for her stay and expenses was about $2000. Hopefully her 14 children can eventually pay that, but it will be very difficult. In private hospitals here you pay before you get treatment. Otherwise you get minimal care if there is room, and pay later. That is a frightening prospect if you don't have any money! We all know that! There is something called Phil Health, but it isn't complete coverage by any means. And it costs something.

So if you, personally, or any organization or church group is interested in taking on a project that would have NO administrative expenses and where the funds would go directly to them, please contact me. I can guarantee your contributions will be received with gratitude and be spent wisely! As we speak, the daughter needs $ for living expenses so she can remain in college.

My only goal here is to help them achieve some self-sufficiency, some security and a lessening of the huge responsibility the two youngest feel, financially and emotionally. It's a horrible burden to bear for 20 and 19 year olds! Thank you for considering helping!

Rod

Thoughts about Life and Living

2008-01-17T00:15:00.000-08:00

As I've been remaking, reforming, renewing my life here in a totally new context, but within the confines of the same "mind", I've had a chance to do some reflecting and reading. Mysteries initially kept me busy. But I inevitably want to delve deeper.

I'm back to reading Joseph Campbell--brilliant man with always startlingly fresh ideas! In "An Open Life", chapter 2: The God Denied, he says: "In some sense, we create our own gods... No matter what name we give it, the God we have is the one we're capable of having. As Meister Eckhart wrote -- A number of Zen roshis have called him very Buddhist." In Eckhart's sermon "On Riddance," as Campbell suggests, "the ultimate riddance, and the most difficult, is the getting rid of your god to go to God...the ultimate adventure....to get rid of the life that you have planned in order to have the life that's waiting to be yours. Move. Move. Move into the Transcendent. That's the whole sense of the adventure, I think." That's part of my journey here, having the life that's waiting to be mine. What will that look like, as I enter this waning time of my life?

And in "Myths to Live By", in the chapter "The Inspiration of Oriental Art," Campbell speaks of the Japanese term "asobase kotoba" which refers to a very special manner of polite, aristocratic speech known as "play language". So instead of saying to someone "I see you have come to the Philippines," "one would express the observation by saying 'I see that you are playing at being in the Philippines.'"

Says Campbell, "the idea being that the person addressed is in such control of his life and his powers that for him everything is a play, a game. He is able to enter into life as one would enter into a game, freely and with ease....and carried even so far that instead of saying to a person, 'I hear that your father has died,' you would say, rather, 'I hear that your father has played at dying."

Campbell goes on to say, "I submit that this is truly a noble, really glorious way to approach life. What HAS to be done is attacked with such a will that in the performance one is literally 'in play'. That is the attitude designated by Nietzsche as 'Amor fati', love of one's fate. It is what the old Roman Seneca referred to in his often quoted saying: 'Ducunt volentem fata, nolentem trahunt': 'The Fates lead him who will; him who won't, they drag.'"

So "are you UP to your given destiny? The ultimate nature of the experience of life is that toil and pleasure, sorrow and joy, are inseparably mixed in it." So since we've gotten here by whatever (perhaps difficult) means, he suggests, are we to lose our nerve? "Go on through with it and play your own game all the way!"

So the artist, he suggests, in this essay on the inspiration of Oriental Art, "seeks the challenge, the difficult thing to do; for his basic approach to life is not of work but of play...Art as an aspect of the game of life, and life itself as the art of a game, is a wonderfully joyous, invigorating approach to the mixed blessing of existence--quite in contrast to this of our Christian West, based on a mythology of universal guilt."

I'll carry that with me as I continue this journey, I hope. As in India, they say that the world is God's "play." "It is a wondrous, thoughtless play: a rough play, the roughest, cruelest, most dangerous, and most difficult, with no holds barred....but winning is not the aim." The first step, as the Bhagavad Gita suggests, is "to abandon absolutely all concern for the fruits of action...in this world or in the next." (Campbell)

So he says, "Life as an art and art as a game--as action for its own sake, without thought of gain or of loss, praise or blame--is the key, then, to the turning of living itself into a yoga, and art into the means to such a life."

Well, something to think about! What do you think? These ideas give me more room to breathe and live and explore and trust--in myself and in life itself. I hope sharing them with you inspires you as they do me.

I realize how wonderful it is to be able to take the time to do things like this--writing, thinking and reflecting without thinking that I should be working! Hallelujah!

Getting Around in the Philippines

2008-01-16T05:48:00.000-08:00

There are many ways to get around in the RP. With the proper salary, cars and trucks are good. Hondas, Toyotas, Nissan, etc.

Short of that there is a good bus system, similar to Mexico, but probably a little less luxurious, at least the air conditioned ones. Bus terminals are newer, often with markets attached, comfort rooms for a couple pesos, and lots of people with baskets of goodies on their heads swarming around newly arrived buses. In Maramag, south about an hour plus, they sell plastic bags of a specialty - quail eggs (bugo), with partly developed embryos inside, boiled! Yum. I haven't tried a bag of those crunchies yet!

Then we have Jeepnys (with lavishly decorated exteriors) that hold 20 or more, and often carry things on top, including goats, bags of rice, sugar cane, wood, people, you name it! Sometimes I've seen one full of sacks with the people on the roof!

Multicabs, small trucks with two benches in the bed, are covered with a roof (but built for smaller people than I). They hold about 10 maximum. Getting into the back is easier than crouching down to get out, especially with a backpack! 6 pesos per ride. Sometimes you can get in the cab with the driver, which is so much easier!

The smallest, Motorellas, fit about 5 max, and are built around scooters. Noisy, dirty, open, old! That's what I ran into today on the way to get my drivers license at the Land Transportation Office. It was turning in front of me, I didn't see it, and before I knew what was happening, smack! My right leg suffered some bruises, the bike a little dent which will have to be fixed, but no blood! Did I forget to push the brake in the panic? I just looked at them, groaned with the pain, checked my bike, retrieved my hat - actually someone brought it to me, saw that they might have to bend something away from their rear wheel, and proceeded on my way, cursing under my breath about how dangerously THEY drive here!

It's insane, and reminds me to wear my helmet, which is rare here! In fact, safety issues are just about ignored everywhere! Seat belts? HA. If you can possibly turn in front of someone to be one your way, why not? Passing on the road. Definitely do it, whenever!

And, of course, scooters, which we have. Every size and color, zipping around freely! Did I mention fumes from vehicles?

I finally did get my Filipino drivers license, however, after a trip to the hospital (wow, the old hospital is in sad shape. Luckily the new one is nearing completion), getting my blood typed ("O") for less than a dollar (I was going to do it in the states but Valley Health wanted to know if my insurance would cover it - so how much would it have been there?), blood pressure taken, eyes checked, papers signed and stamped.

Including an under the table contribution, helpful in getting things processed here, the license cost me about 900 pesos, ($22.50), plus the several hours of waiting, and wondering which window to appear at when! You should see the awful picture they took. I look like a freak - like someone stretched me up and down! What a joke that license picture will be when I pick it up in 4 or 5 months! Yes, that's how long to get the little plastic license! Meanwhile I have a piece of paper.

Filipinos are always waiting in lines here, by the way. Just get there early and wait. No appointments anywhere, doctors included! These people are very patient, I must say! Maybe I can learn a little patience here?

Oh, and one last WARNING! Pedestrians have the right of way on the books, NOT on the streets! BEWARE! They honk but don't slow down! Believe me! If you want a smashed skull, dare them.

Monastery of the Transfiguration

2008-01-15T01:05:00.000-08:00

Just a few km south of town, past the new hospital (not yet open), is the Benedictine Monastery, perched in a secluded area on a quiet knoll with views of the distant mountains on three sides. Reflecting the simple pyramidal shape of one of those mountains, it speaks simplicity, silence and solitude. The stone altar, draped simply with a while cloth, and the gnarled wood lecturn connect the inside to the blue mountains, visible through the glass walls.

Of course I looked at the instruments, a Yamaha digital piano and a Technics organ (short pedal board). I hoped for more, always wishing for a treasure! I have discovered an organ music radio station in St. Louis that plays continuously, so that's some consolation.

The Silence was astounding, compared to the rest of the world here! Now I have somewhere to go if I need to get away from the maddening crowd! Approaching and leaving, I saw a simple residence hall and the Conference center, along with a little shop with religious figurines, jewelry, cards and locally produced food. I brought home a couple packages of sweets to try, along with peanuts. New rice paddies were being planted, beautifully laid out, neat and wet.

A Drive in the Country

2008-01-14T03:48:00.000-08:00

After taking E to school this morning at 7:30 a.m., I headed out into the country, having no idea where the scooter and I would end up. I turned east off the main north-heading road and soon entered the Bukidnon Tree Park. I wanted to see and photograph the famous pine trees that they say keep this area cooler than anywhere else in the entire archipelago. I also discovered the town swimming pool and the water treatment plant.

When strolling through another part of the park last week we heard the laughter and gaiety of swimmers, and now I know where it was coming from.

What I ended up discovering, after getting through the park, was truly amazing back country, nestled in the hills, with mountains in the near distance! Gorgeous views, the real country life in these parts!

For me it was a totally new world away from the city – real farming country, small villages, sugar cane, corn, rice paddies, jungle, a huge chicken farm, mountains, new forests of young pine trees, hidden shacks, carabaos pulling travois or bearing their owners, country folk, small schools, women washing clothes together where the water runs, children eager to smile and curious to see white skin. Often I saw young men sitting around (probably unemployed), scooters, always with two or three riders, tiny churches, newer houses, some qaint and beautiful, and old vernacular shacks of every kind, some perched picturesquely on knolls, valleys green with meandering streams and crops, and hillsides planted with who knows what, or sometimes with only grass growing on them. I assume that a lot of the original forests were cut for firewood and to built houses. There is evidence of a fair amount of recent reforestation in some areas.

I came upon a funeral procession in Barangay Ca-ayan with women carrying umbrellas, scooters in the rear, people walking slowly behind the body, I guess. I couldn’t see the front of the crowd. By the way, a barangay is like a suburb of a larger town. For instance, we live in Casisang, a barangay of Malaybalay City.
Each city has a bunch of barangays around them.

The farthest village I drove through was remote and fascinating. Small wooden or woven bark houses, mangy dogs, chickens, children in their school uniforms – for girls, usually white top and blue skirt below the knee. The school I saw was strung out with several buildings. One small school was in session and I could see the kids and teacher inside, through the lattice walls. There was a big scouting sign hanging there.

Teenagers were out learning to plant crops as part of their schooling, eager to have their pictures taken, as were the 5 women at spring, washing themselves and their clothes. One spoke English and I told her how beautiful it was there. She agreed. They looked happy and relaxed, just living each day doing what had to be done, in community with each other, doing their washing together as friends, neighbors, probably life-long relationships.

I also noticed a sign on the way out that announced a Project supported by the European Union. I’ll have to check that out again.

Speaking of funerals, I drove by a graveyard. They bury their dead in concrete crypts above ground, probably because the water table is so high. I’ve noticed that often they build shelters over the crypts. Not out of sight nor out of mind.

The mountain views were spectacular, shaded with a mix of clouds, fog, or bright in the sun. I took a rather deserted side road and met three women who were carrying ten-foot long bundles of some kind of narrow grass. The many different wildflowers, trees, and bushes were good fodder for my camera. Exploring a few roads not well traveled, I shied away from mud holes! It did rain last night, and with many clouds overhead I was lucky I didn’t get wet!

The romantic in me thought how idyllic it would be to live out there - simply, in community, quietly. There were electric lines and occasionally I heard a radio, so one could have things like computers, lights, and music!

Three and a half hours later I returned home, noticing that my scootering skills felt much more natural. I was totally excited, refreshed, and ready to download the pics.

While downloading the pictures I fixed lunch, rice and a veggie mix with sardines. E needed something printed, which I couldn’t get the computer to do (a recurring problem!) and I then had to shut the computer down because it got hung up. Rebooting, I discovered the more than 100 pictures were gone! Only 7 remained in the camera! Was I bummed or what?

It gives me a reason to go back and explore again! That’s the positive, but I still pouted a bit and felt the victim! I was so excited to see the pics! Oh well, at least E got to see them! But there were some fabulous shots, I just know it! GRRRRR!

Will it work here?

2008-01-13T00:11:00.000-08:00

If it works in the U.S. will it work here? Probably NOT! We found a place to rent videos and I got all excited that here was something to do, but it wouldn't play on my computer. The one I brought from the U.S. would. That's very frustrating, as I begin to feel more isolated. Some days it seems that nothing works, or at least it takes jumping through a million hoops and hours of wasted time to get something to work!

So I took a walk and played with the little kids down the street. At least they're alive, open, happy, and looking for attention. They love doing high fives when I walk by. This time we exchanged names. Of course I couldn't really understand them, but with children it doesn't matter. They remain open and anxious for contact, and specifics aren't at all important to them. They just want to play! I just want to play!

Rebuilding Pianos

2008-01-12T17:29:00.000-08:00

Landlords are having their piano refinished, restrung, and adjusted - under their carport! A crew of 5 from Cagayan de Oro are doing the work. They might finish in 5 days. Funny, it took 6 months in the USA! The boss asked me how much it cost in the USA, and when I told him at least 20K, he looked dumbfounded! Course I don't think the quality of work here will be quite the same.

E's grandmother is very ill. He went to visit, stayed in the hospital overnight and came back yesterday afternoon very tired and upset. He stayed with them for a year when in H.S., so he feels close to her.

What have I been doing? Not a lot. I need to find more things to do. I practice - working on the Bach 2-part inventions. I'll progress to the 3-pt., and last night I printed off web Beethoven's 1st Sonata. I brought a few other things too, and a book came with the piano. I've offered a recital in Massachusetts for early September.

Yesterday the electricity was off all day! I couldn't practice piano, since it's digital, or surf the web, or cook. It was a beautiful day, and if E hadn't taken the scooter keys with him, I could have gone for a ride. I do want to explore the countryside and take more pictures.

Today is Sunday. I've been meaning to go to a Baptist church to check out their music, since that's was part of my profession, but I keep being lazy. Well, I don't know what time their service is!

It's cloudy this morning. It usually turns partly cloudy later when it's like this. But the temperature is just perfect for sitting around in undies! I love that!

The Sounds of the Philippines

2008-01-12T17:08:00.000-08:00

December 20,

As I sit here today clearing out old emails, I hear a huge ruckus across the wall - pigs grunting and growling and making weird noises and a cow bellowing as if it and the pigs were fighting over something! They seem to do this twice a day, regularly.

At about 1:45 a.m., the roosters start crowing. There must be a lot of cockfights because there are LOTS of fighting cocks. In many yards and in big fields are little a-frames, each with its own rooster, tied to a tether attached to one leg! I see them everywhere, riding in the bus. They are the same breed, whatever that is, brown with small rose combs. I hear they come from Texas! And they crow about it all day and night! Their fate? Don’t think I want to think about it, thanks. But then, it silences them!

About every day children walk along the street in small groups, stopping outside the fence and singing Christmas Carols (I presume for pesos?). Last night I heard a woman singing what sounded like a folk tune. She had a really good voice, too. That I’d like to hear more! Others come along, singing, or sounding like “Cries of London.” Then a few stop by and call for your attention, wanting handouts. Yesterday a shrunken, pitiful looking old woman stood out there forever, making pitiful sounds. Guilt!

Along the roads - cars and noisy trucks, multi-cabs, motorellas and scooters constantly beeping! Some of the horns are damn loud, too! Someone suggested that if you’re looking for quiet in the Philippines, you’re crazy! They were right.

The other day, outside E’s old boarding house, an old man shuffled along with his ancient looking 3-string guitar, playing, dancing a little shuffle and singing an old tune. I gave him a few pesos. Gotta support those musicians!

When you meet someone on the street, they often greet you with a “Morning” in a singsong fashion - musical and vocal.

And then there are the dogs, always barking. Last night I heard one bark on and on and wished I had a spear! Luckily he wasn’t too close, or I might have committed an act of unkindness!

Without a TV or Radio yet, I can’t drown out all the noise. Course I’m not sure I want to, at least for a while. At night the air conditioner fan in our bedroom mostly does the trick! I did have one good sleep even with that off.

I’d like to record some of it and put it together in a collage mix. It would either be really weird or really fascinating. The barking/crowing would be the percussion, the pigs the sustained rising harmony, the songs overlaid! Now there’s an idea. What would I call it?

Carols of the Animals? Cacophony of the Carols?

Saturday, December 22, 2007

Services: Post Office
Closed on Saturdays, so I couldn’t mail the duplicate title application I need to get off ASAP. The JRS company couldn’t mail it either because it was to a POB #. That saved me $30! As I was trying to find the PO, of course I’d point and ask and they’d shake their heads yes, but finally I had to take a Motorella and, come to find out, it was only a block off the main street, Fortich St.

I need to learn to drive our scooter, but before that I need to get a license! Oh my, what will that be like? LOL (I actually don't need a license for 90 days, as I can drive on my U.S. license, I found out.)

Transportation: Motorellas – small 2-4 person capacity built around a motor scooter, noisy and airy, slower. Students use them a lot to get to/from their boarding houses. 6 pesos (15 cents)
Multicabs – like a small truck with enclosed bed, benches on both sides, that fit 10-12 squeezed, or as many as they can cram in! 6 pesos
Jeepnies – Larger still and very elaborately decorated, each at the whim of owner, I guess. Don’t see them here.
Buses – Air conditioned or not. Some with TV’s or radios blaring. Some clean, some not too smooth. Almost always full. The Bus depots (terminals here) are very busy with people always trying to sell food, markets, etc.

Food: We had a party for 11 friends last night. School is out for a couple weeks. They cooked pasta with a sweetish tomato sauce (included some sweet pickle relish), a sweet macaroni salad with fruit cocktail, a sweet cream stuff out of a little box, mayo and some other canned sweet fruits. Then, my favorite was a Mango Float (refrigerator cake) made with sliced fresh mangos, honey grahams, and more sweet cream and sweet creamer stuff in layers then refrigerated to firm up. Yum! Fattening? LOL

Meals include lots of starches. Rice and pasta with a little meat maybe, maybe a little veggie. Always white rice. They don’t like the color of brown rice, I guess!

Sunday, December 23, Mom’s Birthday –
Up at 6:30, beautiful clear sky, so after breakfast I went out for a walk with my camera. Did my camera walk with me? LOL. Went on roads I’d not walked, along pathways between houses, and never got lost, but found some interesting things. Always fascinated in what plants I find, or vernacular architectural (rich or poor). Lots of people in cars waved HI to me, the stranger in paradise!

Then my landlord invited me to go along with the family up to their farm, so I jumped at the chance! We took their 3 older children to a Memorial Park where they practice karate, then proceeded on very rough roads (luckily they have a 4-wheel Toyota truck) to the farm, up in the hills where there are beautiful views of the mountains on the East side of Malaybalay. They grow sugar cane and a lot of mulberry (for the silk worms). Also checked out a honey bee hive (T just took the top off, slowly lifted the trays out, and we found the queen bee, not as big as I thought she’d be) I got some pics, and didn’t even feel that threatened by the bees. He was telling me that their sting can relieve arthritis and joint pains, and that this substance they use on the hives also can cure cancer. Hm. I’ll have to check that out more, out of curiosity. Their house up on the hill, along with house for the foreman and workers, has a stunning view. So vey quiet and peaceful and we’re invited to go up and stay if we want!

The shed for the worms is empty now until the mulberrys grow more. They keep the mulberries trimmed down to only a 6” stubb, which then grows back. When a few feet tall then they cut them back and feed the worms the leaves. It was all very fascinating!

We went by a Dole banana plantation (organic, no less) with all the bananas wrapped in big protective sacks. And also saw huge chicken barns, suspended about 6’ off the ground. They grow a lot of chickens around here. This is the center of agriculture on the island, I guess. I’ll post more pics on Webshots.

December 27, 2007

Christmas has passed, with its fireworks, Buena Noche, and a trip to Kuya to be with parents. We stayed in the Maple Leaf Hotel, owned by a Canadian farmer and his big Filipino family. I had met him online in a yahoo group on farming in the Philippines. The town, Maramag, is about 20 minutes bus ride from the family in Kuya.
Thankfully I had earplugs, as the intermittent fireworks and the music from the bar next door would have undone me! Maramag is a poor farming community, but seems to have a lot of people. The bus station and central market are very busy. Walking around the relatively newly built, covered open-air market was an experience. Vegetable, fruits, and of course meats and fish. The smell sometimes was ripe! Another building houses small eateries, including a Muslim eatery.

We took the bus and a scooter the next day up to Mama and Papa’s new rented house. A few of the relatives showed up. We had Christmas dinner on the outside table (the only one), which was cooked on an open fire in the new “kitchen” built by Papa. I played with the kids mostly. E’s had a bug for days so he’s been slightly sedate. Then we took the bus home just as it was about to rain.

Yesterday I rode to Cagayan again (with my landlord) to get a visa extention for two more months. I also found a Yamaha digital piano, which will be delivered today! Now I’ll have something more concrete to do than just cook, wash dishes, shop, wash clothes and clean house!

I’ve made all kinds of observations that I keep meaning to remember, but now I can’t.

Friday, December 28, 2007

Decided to go to a doctor today, as my heart beat has been really erratic and slow and sometimes I feel out of breath when I’m resting. Saw a Dr. who lives in California and was here visiting. He is Philippino. He referred me to a cardiologist, who comes tomorrow.

The place to get my drivers license was closed until Wednesday. E’s friends came over, we played scrabble, they cooked and we ate pancit (fresh noodles with veggies).
Otherwise didn’t do squat! E’s really enjoying the piano, as I, and has spent a lot of time trying to figure out some melodies he knows. School is out until January 7. Also had an appointment with an insurance agent who I hope will be able to get us a health insurance policy for E. I guess I need one too!

Saturday, December 29

Just took a morning walk at about 6:15. For the first time I saw morning fog, which meant, I guess, that it cooled off enough to cause it. Met the neighbor, Steve, who comes from the Dallas area, was in radio, and wants to start his own Christian radio station here.
He and his Filipina wife were walking their German Shepherd.

Several kids were out already with their smiles and high fives. Noticed that someone wrote “Fuck” on the fence wall.

Breakfast this morning – left over rice, milk, a few raisins and honey. I crave some almonds! Can’t find nuts here, or cheese. How spoiled I was in the U.S. with the availability of foods from everywhere! Course, in Timbucktoo, U.S.A., I’d bet I wouldn’t find a lot of things either! In a way, Malaybalay is out in the sticks, rural, provincial perhaps. And with a low per capita income, luxuries just aren’t on the front page.

There are a lot of really small businesses, of course. Little shops for electrical supplies, auto supplies, repair, furniture making, fruit stands, used clothing, etc. They’re probably all run by a family who barely makes enough to survive.

Ecologically I see a lot that makes me cringe. As in Mexico, people keep the space in front of their house or business clean, but everywhere else stuff just gets tossed wherever! Along the main roads, where almost everything is, it can be pretty sad looking. Down town even you can tell that things are pretty thrown together with whatever they can scrounge together. I guess the recycling business is good, but aesthetically it’s pretty shabby, of course. This constantly challenges my wanting things to be pretty and nice!

I’m not noticing the roosters much anymore. Here and there I hear them, but mostly I’ve shut them out. Familiarity breeds ignorance?

I’ve notices some small sparrow-like birds around, chirping (House Birds), but haven’t seen anything exotic yet. Also a wild pigeon, which is about the size of a bluejay, black on top, white on bottom. When I was still at the hotel we did see a couple of HUGE beetles, probably 3” around! Wow. Harmless but BIG. And here and there I’ve seen a little lizard in the house, but it seems to stay out of the way. I wish it would eat the tiny ants!

We discovered a trail of ants from the floor to the ceiling last night, and I put out a line of this chalk stuff. May have to resort to something stronger. I’ve seen very few mosquitoes inside or out. A few flying things come in in the evening when the light is on and door open. One keeps the doors open most of the day. It’s been a little warmer for a couple days. But mornings are always cooler. Everyone says that Malaybalay is the coolest spot in the Philippines.

January 2

2008-01-12T16:49:00.000-08:00

January 2, 2008

I lived through the bedlam of New Years Eve. Friends over, lots of food, including a meal right before midnight. Then at midnight, to scare the evil spirits away, everyone, and I mean everyone started their fireworks. There were so many crackers going off that it sounded like hail on a tin roof! It was so funny. And lots of fireworks in the sky too. Somebody said they make fireworks here. Supposedly the police say you can’t shoot them but everone ignores that!

Traditionally, one keeps the door open to let the evil spirits out. Seems like the evil spirits lurk around this place! I don't mean that I feel them, just that they are aware of them at the turn of the new year.

Tonight the lights have gone out, and we can’t find the lighter we bought to light our 3 little candles. So the computer and cell phones are our light! I tried to turn on the gas burner but that doesn’t even work. Weird. Have no idea how long the blackout will last, but it could be all night. Feels like Kansas in the 50’s! (Later….it didn’t last that long!)

I spent two days in bed, partly due to really slow heartbeat, but also combined with upset over some street food. Binaki, which is corn cake mixed with sugar, water and coconut milk, and wrapped in a corn cob shell. It was good, but….I got a fever and short spell of diahrrea. I’ve sworn off street food!

I’m getting better at finding fresh vegetables. But sometimes they’re not as fresh as they look. I just hope the green beans I had tonight weren’t tainted! I’ve also started eating meat more, as there are almost no beans, no cheese, no soy products. I have to be careful of salt intake in those cans of meat. There is a market in town that sells fresh meat, so I must go there more.

I’m on a fast for blood test in the morning, and will also get to wear a 24-hour heart monitor soon. Monday E and my landlord got a Dr. to come here to see me. He gave me a prescription which has revived me! I was really dragging, but with 45 beats per minute, no wonder I was tired!

January 3, 2008

Went for blood test and X-ray today at the Baptist hospital. Didn’t feel the needle at all! While I was sitting waiting for the X-ray, people were assembling and singing a hymn and listening to a sermon. I guess that’s what happens at church run hospitals here.

Managed to get a fax sent to my bank, which cost P106. That’s about $2.50. Sure as heck beats mailing it and waiting for 2 weeks or more. Now I’ll be able to bank online.
Tomorrow I go to Valencia to have an echocardiogram. I picked up the blood results and X-ray this afternoon to take to the Doctor.

Also bought some fresh pork chops from the market that looks clean and is indoors. Food is a never ending quest, of course, and trying to find quality is challenging. The Dole store I go to has organic vegetables, but none are refrigerate, though it's cool inside the little store. The woman who takes my money is very pregnant, so I ask how her baby is. She's also shy, a common trait here.

I practiced some but we’re both dealing with boredom. E visited his friends some, I read some, along with the two trips to town. A TV could help have a variety of venues for keeping stimulated, if you call TV stimulating!

January 4, 2008

Today continues the health quest. I went to Valencia to see Dr. Y, a mother of 4 and a graduate of the Heart Center in Manila. She did an echocardiogram and and EKG. My heart is a little enlarged and the left ventricle isn’t squeezing much blood out of it. She thinks that explains the erratic, weird behavior and probably my low energy level. Her guess is that it’s been that way for a long time and was perhaps caused by a virus, since there aren't any other reasons, like smoking, drinking, etc. I’ll see another specialist who will examine the arteries to check for blockage, but she doesn’t think we’ll find much. So…...living off meds, like I hoped I'd never have to do!

Reflecting on life, as this makes one do, I remember thinking that I didn’t want to have to sustain life by taking meds, but I’m hardly washed up already at 63, so do I have a choice? Is that called eating words?

I could feel lucky to be here, as the cost of all of these tests will be meager compared to the U.S.! The ultrasound only cost about $75! However, the meds cost will strain my budget every month, but still less I’m sure than at “home”.

Where is home? I feel so connected to my friends there, like they’re just as close as always. I guess the internet does that. I did get 4 pieces of mail today – the first! That was really nice!

January 7, 2008

Wow, it’s been a month since I arrived! Amazing! It seems like so much has and hasn’t happened in that time. Today for some reason I’m feeling very homesick. My daughter, K, sent a couple pictures of J & H (grandchildren) at Christmas, and one with M and them together. I got all teary-eyed!

M, my son, is in England for the week, training for his new job writing for “Stars & Stripes”. He’ll go to Iraq soon. His apartment in Germany is in Griesheim (Frankfurt-am-Mein).
Please keep him in your prayers. I look forward to his articles, and to the end of his 14 month position! He’ll spend a month in Iraq, a month in Afghanistan, and a month off.

Today feels like a cloudy day in June in Massachusetts, slightly cool with a thick cloud cover (not normal here). I practiced piano, like usual, thought about a possible recital at First Church in the early fall, then walked. And I am thinking a lot about “home.”

E’s back in school after a break. Four of his friends just showed up last night so we gave them dessert (canned fruit cocktail with something they call cream (boxed whipping cream like stuff) and sweetened condensed milk. Not too healthy for sugars, but. Then they watched half of ‘Finding Nemo’ on my computer. I was tired, so read some Joseph Campbell.

I’m driving the scooter now! I only fell over once, NOT while moving, but while trying to back up along the curb. Embarrassing! Very few here wear helmets, and I need to get in the habit! All I need is a cracked skull AND a weak heart!

The heart thing: the entire echocardiogram (ultrasound) cost about $75! I pay cash up front. They tell you how much, you pay, then they do it! The artery checkup will, however, cost about P21K, which is about $500. Still a bargain! And my heartbeat wasn’t actually that slow, it just wasn’t registering well on my wrist, so never trust your wrist, I say!

I finally got a converter so I could charge my camera batteries. Now I can get back to taking some pics and exploring the area with the scooter. We visited a rare pine forest just at the edge of town. The trees are quite tall, branch out at the top, and are relatively sparsely needled. They claim that this area is cooler because of them. They are protected in a park here. It was interesting to also see all the undergrowth of plants – houseplants to us!

I'm starting a fund to help the family buy a house. Mama and Papa have moved out of their home to allow their one son and family a place. They're in a 2 room shack right now and need a place!

I’ll end this Journal. Hopefully the next will include more cultural stuff, journeys, etc. This one got caught in the middle of living life!

Rod's Journal in RP

2008-01-12T16:19:00.000-08:00

December 13, 2007
“Pissing my way halfway across the planet”:

I’m slowly coming out of a fog travel travail, sick from a cold that began the day before I left. Left NYC late, due to snow in Chicago. Left Chicago late due to snow in Chicago. While waiting for the new tickets, I met a woman who grew up in LaCrosse, Ks., less than 10 miles from where I grew up.
Rerouted to San Francisco, not Toyko as was planned, then Manila, where I arrived in the dark of morning, with only 2 bags of my three. Thank God! I couldn’t have handled dealing with three at that point. Here’s why:
After having to buy an extra ticket to Hong Kong (because I had only a one-way ticket) for $299 (refundable in Manila, of course) we left for the 15 or more hours to Manila.
I was drinking anything I could get my hands on, as I didn’t want to arrive sick! I wore out the way to the plane johns. I even got caught taking the stewardesses water bottle.
“I’m so sorry, I’m trying to drown a cold,” I said. She wasn’t happy, and I didn’t get any preferential treatment!
We flew to Guam (11 hours of drinking, running to the john, napping, and reading Edith Hamilton’s “Mythology”), sat for an hour for rewhatevering, and off for 3 more very long, tedious hours to Manila.
I was going to have a really stress-free trip!
Arrived in Manila early morning, 2 hours after my next flight took off, then discovered that my ticket from Manila to Cagayan de Oro was mistakenly dated Feb. 7! Itinerary had it right, but the tickets I’d suddenly gotten FedEx Monday morning said Feb. 7!
Promptly forgot to find the place to get refund for the Hong Kong flight! Will I ever be able to get that? (A day trip on Monday to Cagayan retrieved the bag and I was able to apply for refund. The scenery is beautiful but the ride rough! I’ll get to repeat this trip every 2 months to apply for visa extensions)
Back to the initial flight: how to get to Cagayan! --
“Go to the Domestic Terminal”, I was told, so I lugged my two overweight bags onto a shuttle and ended up at the International Departures terminal.
“Oh, go down those stairs over there for the Shuttle. You need Terminal 2.”
With a heavy backpack, my laptop and 2 unruly, blasted, f….g bags, I got to the top of the stairs. Oh, damn, how will I do these?
Time for a miracle, and luckily a Filipino man, Arvol, thin but friendly, offered to help.
“I’m waiting for a friend who’s due in later, it’s ok, I’ll help you.”
“Salamat po!” (Thanks, I said.)
We struggled with the bags down at least 20 steps. The guard said, I guess, that the shuttle wouldn’t come there for some reason, so off to find a cab to the Domestic terminal, helper in tow.
Found the Cebu Airlines ticket office (though my ticket was with Cathay Pacific?) and the next flight was in 45 minutes. He went into the office with my tickets. I stood and waited, with my bags, trusting I’d see him again, since he had my tickets!
He reappeared, “Maybe you can get on the plane anyway, go into terminal,” they told him. I gave him a tip, he gave me his address (“in the travel business”) and I went through security, to check bags.
“Sorry, too late. But why are your tickets for Feb. 7? My supervisor says you have to go back to ticket office.” {Luckily only a few doors away.)
“Yeah, well see my itinerary, it was for Dec. 7!”
“Sorry, you’ll have to go back to the ticket office, please, and get new tickets. Here’s what they will cost you……”
“Will I get a refund,” I asked, to no response.
Oh, right, I thought, more money, on top of $135 in NYC for extra overweight bag (American Airlines), then $150 in San Francisco for the same, only now on Philippine Airlines, plus the extra $299 ticket I had to buy in San Francisco because I had only a one-way ticket to Manila (refundable, of course!) Ok, right!
Manila, well, you’ve read that already, except for my sitting in the ticket office queue for an hour, with my bags sitting on a cart, supposedly being guarded by the guard outside the door – totally out of my vision! Got the ticket, went through inspection for the second time, and into the terminal. After three hours of sitting, exhausted, stressed and sick with the cold I couldn’t drown, we got onto a plane and in an hour and a half arrived in Cagayan de Oro.
Morning there, small airport, debarking down steps (like you do in small airports!). Cab for 300 pesos (“I thought you said 60?”), porters helped get bags (little guys I thought would be crushed lifting those two awfully heavy bags over their heads) onto a bus and in a few minutes off to Malaybalay City, my final destination.
“Oh, damn, there’s no john on this bus and I have to pee!” Comedy, this?
An hour later, thanks to a stowed sandwich bag that I prayed would be leak-proof, and after the full bus was only half full, I leaned forward, stuffed a few Kleenex into the bag and, “Whew, relief!" Zipped it up and, “now what do I do with this?” (I won’t tell!)
Arrived in Malaybalay, recognizing the square from June, now covered with more Christmas lights than I’ve ever seen in a square block, and got off bus. Hopped onto a motorella to take me to my hotel, Haus Malibu.
I checked in and was delivered a very sweet note from E. “Welcome Home! Sorry, I’m on a class trip, 2 hours away, for the night, see you tomorrow. Love, E.” Well, I was glad to have the night to pull myself together, frankly. I’d contemplated staying in Cagayan to wait for my lost bag.
I slept well after a welcome shower! Woke to sounds of roosters crowing, scooters scurrying and Muslim prayer calls. Wow, I made it. Ugh, but why, after all that drinking do I still feel like s…t? LOL
About noon, as I was having Vegetable Stir Fry with rice, E showed up! He’d escaped from the field trip with “Teacher, I’m sorry, but I have to go check on my wife and make sure he’s arrived and is ok!” It was a two-hour bus ride and he hates traveling!
We enjoyed a couple hours together. “Sorry, no kissing, as I don’t want you to get this cold.”
In the morning I walked to the department store, Gaisano, which is chocked full of mostly cheap goods, and bought an umbrella (I found only one that wasn’t full of designs and flowers), a couple cans of juice then back to hotel. Before he left to return to his “service project” we bought a phone for me, well, for him, so we could text each other, me using his old phone. Then he was off again to practice taking blood pressures, etc.
I spent a pretty awful second night with some fever and cough. Bits of CNN and BBC throughout the night, cocks crowing way too early, and a small candlelight procession of about 10 people, one chanting what sounded like Latin, and lead by one carrying a cross with 3 candles were my nights entertainment.
Finally at 6 am I gave up on more sleep and decided to start my life all over again! So here I am, time for breakfast and feeling better. E will arrive early afternoon, and we’ll go look at a place to live! Not, I found out later.
I thought often about my friends and family in the USA and a few tears flowed. What wonderful people they are! But somehow this feels like it was meant to be, that I was being called to be here with E and that all will work out splendidly!

A WEEK LATER.
A lot has happened in this first week here, halfway across the planet. About 4 days into my/our new life I wandered around and came upon the Bukidnon (the state) government buildings. I went in and told the guard I was new to town and did he know whom I might talk to about finding a place to live?
“Over there, talk to her.”
“Oh yes, let me see if ….. is available.”
“Hello, my name is...., how can I help you?” A middle aged man, dressed in a coral shirt (identical to what everyone was wearing), took me to his desk and asked how he could help. Within a few minutes we popped into his nice 4-seater pickup and he took me around to a few “quiet” areas where there might be places to rent. First was an apartment in a triplex (where we are now). But I got to see more areas and learned a lot about the outlying area South of town. Found out that he owns many different dogs and a horse and is close friends with my landlord.
Our landlord, T, spent some time in the Middle East, and now owns a farm or two here where they grow, among other things, silk worms. Funny, I used to live in a silk mill. Fascinating, and I hope to see the operation soon. He and his wife have 4 children, 2 of each.
So we moved in the next day, I guess it was, to a partially furnished, lovely apartment. A day later the air conditioner arrived (which has helped choke out the very early cacophony of roosters – fighting cocks!)
The next day the refrigerator got new freon, the microwave was fixed, we went to Valencia (40 minutes away) with 2 friends and shopped. We ended up having so many bags (pillows, rice cooker, food, speakers for computer, dishes, kitchen supplies, etd.) that we had to hire a transport back! They tend to pack things in old boxes and tie this plastic string around it to keep it together. You can’t go into a store with your bags. There is always lots of security in the larger businesses.
By the next day the fun had turned to being totally fried, having been on my feet cleaning, arranging, and shopping for what felt like a week!
And the next day it was time to cook a real meal. I panicked!
“Oh my god, what kind of food? Filipino or American or what?” Did I have what I needed?
I made a hasty trip into town (about a 5 minute walk to the main road and a 7-10 minute ride into the center) to get yet more stuff, and had only an hour to get home and cook something for THE MAN, who would arrive between his classes. YIKES!
He saved me by canceling because of something at school! SO dinner was then the goal, and he arrived with about 4 friends and they ended up cooking. I hit the bed exhausted and in a fragile state! Let them handle it!
It’s been calmer since! Each day I get a little more of what we need, find out more where to get it, and relax into the new life. Yeah, right!
E brings yet more friends and classmates who want to meet me. They’re always very pleasant and considerate! And he studies (seems to learn very quickly) his anatomy, info tech, etc.
Yesterday we went to Maramag on the bus (an hour south) then on to Kuya, the township (Barangue) where his parents live. Mama and Papa just moved out of their house to accommodate a son, his wife and 3 children, and into a very small shack, where they pay $5/month, but can’t pay that! Mama cooks outside except when it’s raining, then she has nowhere to cook. I was shocked to see the conditions. I’m still not sure why they moved out of the house Papa built years ago. Before long two brothers, two sisters, and many nieces and nephews, aunts, etc. started trickling in, and suddenly I was a total “hit” with the little kids.
Two of the littlest took to me, sat on my lap, and I entertained them and about ten others, ages 2 to 10, for about 2 hours. They had fun picking at my gray hair, tickling me, poking at my tummy (a ball to them), and laughing at my funny faces. Pempaul, and Bonavie, both about 3, surprised their parents with how they suddenly they accepted me. It was very precious!
Then J showed up. He is just graduating from high school (looks 14), and is so acknowledging and sweet. We had really “clicked” in June, so it was good to see him again too. We had time to talk about his plans for college (his father, Uncle R, is a politician) and he gave me his Nike necklace, in exchange for my green cap. He’ll come visit us sometime, I’m sure. And we’ll spend Christmas there of course. At least in Maramag where there is a small hotel, Maple Leaf, run by a Canadian and his Filipino family.
A, who doesn’t speak much English, but who also seems very kind and interested in getting to know me, was also there with the family. He hasn’t been working and he’s in his late 20’s, I’d guess. SO sad, as he’s obviously very intelligent and has a sparkle in his eyes. I noticed that he held back some this time.
E’s two brothers, who live there, came out of the sugar cane fields to say “Hi”. They work for 80 pesos a day ($2), from 5 a.m. to about 4:30, with only one lunch break. They all sat around playing poker while I entertained the kids, E talked to his Mama and sister, G, who is also in school here.
G volunteers on the weekends for a program which pays for her college tuition. She had to be elected to that program.
The other reason we went to see them was to pick up our scooter which E had left there a few weeks ago. So we eventually hopped on the scooter, said our goodbyes and took the two-hour trip back home. My buns were ready for that trip to end! We got back after dark, but the trip was fabulous as I got to see the country in a new way.
In so many respects it’s a lot like Massachusetts and Vermont, just with a bigger feeling. The roads generally run through flat valleys full of acres and acres of rice fields, or sugar cane. The sky was fabulous, always a mix of deep blue and gloriously colored clouds, some gray, some white thunderheads, with rainbows, and always changing colors and effects. The mountains in the distance are jagged, rounded, or conical – a palate rich in color, texture, form. That night Eufam went back to school for a pageant and I slept!!! When he got back we laughed about what fun I had had with the kids.
So today is Sunday, and I don’t have to play for Church! (And I heard later, it was cancelled due to snow - in Massachusetts, not RP!)
I’ll probably go buy a desk and bureau we found Friday, and his sister and two cousins will hopefully come over for dinner. I’ll cook a chicken soup with pancit (fresh ramen type noodles), and some veggies and whatever meat. I seem to be eating beef out of cans now. I did find a store to buy frozen chicken breasts. Whew! Eggs will be a staple, I think.
I still panic a little over what to cook. I found a little Dole vegetable place near the University that has very nice organic vegetables, including lettuce, which I didn’t think grew here, plus broccoli, cauliflower, greens, snow peas, garlic, onions, and fruits. Chinese ‘Fugi’ apples are in season now, as well as tangerines, grapefruit-like fruits, bananas, of course, mangoes (yum!), and other things I don’t recognize.
Hopefully we’ll finally get the computer hooked up to the wireless Ethernet. Then I can be in touch with you all a little more. I actually felt some homesickness yesterday, and almost cried!
I realize I haven’t talked about the town or the climate/weather. Days don’t get too hot, and so far haven’t been terribly humid, and evenings are nice and on the cooler side (low 70’s?) Compared to the coastal areas, Malaybalay is considerably cooler. The elevation is higher, and there is a ridge of smaller mountains on the east side. Otherwise it’s rolling terrain. An agricultural area, it has the University, the Bukidnon State offices, a new hospital almost finished outside of town, and a pretty active downtown area, always filled with students in their uniforms. As a nursing student, E always has to wear his white nursing clothes. Uniforms are in here.
I always notice people looking at me, as I’m one of very few whites. The next house does have a Texan, with his Filipina wife. I found out that he was a radio person. Don’t know more yet. Their German Shepherd arrived today to get bred by my landlords’ German Shepherd. Excitement! Neighbor want to start an Christian Radio station.
It often rains a few times during the day, never a huge amount, so carrying an umbrella is always wise. With only a scooter, we’ll have to be on the alert for when we can travel.
It’s definitely Third World. The streets could be compared to lots of places in smaller towns in Mexico, I’d think, or South America. Houses can be totally pasted together shacks, to lovely concrete block homes, detailed elegantly and landscaped well. Our place has a lovely plant border along the one side of the parking area, designed by a landscape designer, no less. Very interesting plants! I’ll take pictures soon.
The property where we live is surrounded by concrete block walls and an iron fences, along the road. Lots of fighting cocks crow in the early morning, and at some point, hogs across the wall start their morning noises. So far I haven’t smelled them!
Our apartment is a simple rectangle with the entrance into a small living/dining area with the kitchen at the end. To the left are our bedroom and bath, and another smaller bedroom and bath, which we’ll use for an office and guest room. We can also pull down stairs to a spacious upper story for storage, or for more guests, if we want. The house is pretty well built, with plaster walls, marble tile floors, nice fixtures and a decent enough kitchen with plenty of cabinets. Out back in the laundry area. I’ve had to spread some Miracle Chalk for little ants!
So far I’m paying the landlord’s helper to do the laundry for P100 (about $2.50). The landlord, his wife and 3 children live in the other two units. Their 2-3 yr. old son often runs around in his birthday suit. Cute!
If you leave your front door open and kids on the street, outside of the wall, can see you inside, they’ll sing carols for cash. They’re pretty persistent, and either you close the door or pay up. It does bring up issues, just like begging on the street. To give or not to give, that is the question! Being on the inside vs. those on the outside - is that what fences create? Yeah.

MONDAY, December 18:
I started the day feeling pretty depressed. E’s been busy with school and I’ve reached a lull in what I can do for the apartment. I shopped for food, got a large water jug for filtered water, cooked lunch, which ended up being about 2 hours too early due to his having to study for an exam this afternoon -- Information Technology (computers). I’m reading another mystery, thinking I’ve about had it with mysteries for a while, and finally took a bath! That helped me come out of my funk. Soon I need to get back on a schedule for ME! I’m going without my reflux meds because they don’t sell them here. We’ll see how that goes! Still waiting on internet connection…so I can get back in touch with the world. We don’t have a TV yet, or radio, so I’ve not heard a word about the world. Now why am I sorry about that? I couldn’t wait to forget about the worlds’ problems!

TUESDAY, December 19:
Big day – got reconnected to the Internet! Lots of contacts to notify of address change. And a day to think about starting my life again. Oh, God, do I have to? I checked out two churches. One had a real piano, pretty out of tune upright plus an organ with half a pedalboard. The Catholic Cathedral was having a mass at which there were lots of kids with Santa hats on, but I couldn’t see anything up front. I’m ready to start practicing!
Also bought different reflux meds today and will see if they work like Prilosec. A long day as E is essentially in classes 7:30 to 7:30! Gross schedule, if you ask me.
People seem to burn stuff a lot, and outside, and it wafts in and out, making me cough. Hmmmm, wonder what’s being burned? Probably just about anything. Gee, what will I do tomorrow? I can always play on the internet, I guess, and read.